How much Food is Enough ?

Eating is an all time favorite canine activity and most dogs will lick the bowl clean and then ask for seconds with a winning tilt of the head. Your dog is not the best judge of when enough is enough, so it’s up to you to decide how much she can eat.

Catering for the Individual Dog:
The right amount of food varies with the individual dog. Every can or package of food has guidelines printed on it. The trouble is, these are written with the “average” dog in mind, but nobody knows quite what the average dog looks like, let alone how much she needs to eat.

Even if they happen to weigh the same, all dogs are unique. Their activity levels differ, their ages differ and their metabolisms differ, so their nutritional requirements differ as well. The feeding guidelines provided on dog food containers are good starting points. Then focus on the needs of your very own not-at-all-average dog.

Helpful Guidelines:
You can work out how much your dog needs to eat by learning to evaluate her overall body condition, then adjusting her food accordingly. Many vets are now recommending that you use a five-point scale to determine her body condition and work out how much food she should be receiving each day.

To assess your dog’s body condition, take a good look at her from the back and from above to see if she looks lean or heavy. Then put your hands over her ribcage to see if the ribs are prominent or heavily padded over with fat. Armed with this information – how your dog looks and how her ribs feel – you can use the chart opposite and accompanying illustrations as guidelines to evaluate your dog’s body, so you know to give more, less or the same amount of food as usual.

Your aim is t feed your dog the right amount of food so that her body is “ideal.” But if your check shows that she is on the overweight side, she’s getting more food than she can use and you should cut it back. And if she’s underweight, she’s not eating enough, so feed her more.

Four Simple Steps:
Feeding your dog the correct amount is a very simple process. Dr. Churchill suggests owners follow these four steps:

1.Choose the most complete and balanced owner’s food you can find.

2.Follow the feeding guidelines on the package.

3.Evaluate your dog every two weeks.

4.Adjust your dog’s rations – always do this gradually – until she matches the ideal “score.”

Whether your dog is a puppy, middle-aged or geriatric, active or relatively sedentary, by following guidelines you will help ensure that she remains at a healthy weight. With this method, you can monitor your dog continually and adjust how much you feed her in response to the changes in her body and her lifestyle.

Why exercise is so Important ?

Dog owners know how much their canine companions adore sharing an afternoon jaunt or dashing after a ball in the park. But exercise is much more than just huge fun – it’s also doing your dog a whole lot of good.

“A good exercise program will help keep your dog from becoming overweight, which has been linked to health problems such as heart disease, respiratory difficulties and arthritis in dogs,” says M. Christine Zink, D.V.M., PH .D. a lecturer in pathology at Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine in Baltimore, Maryland, and author of Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete. Regular exercise will also expand your dog’s lung and heart capacity, and will help give her good stamina and lots of all-round energy.

The well-exercised dog is less likely to get bored or restless and develop troublesome traits, such as digging, barking and chewing.

“Exercise causes the release of endorphins in the brain,” explains Dr. Zink. These are chemicals that give your dog a great feeling of well-being. And what better way to keep her content than with a natural high?

Keeping Fit:
Exercise is for fun and for fitness. But throwing a leash on your dog and strolling down the street at a snail’s pace for five minutes isn’t going to do the trick. She needs more of a muscular and cardiovascular workout than that to get her legs heart and lungs going more than usual. She needs a proper exercise and conditioning program, and if you’re going to take the time and energy to exercise your dog, you might as well make it satisfying and worthwhile for her. It will help her develop strength and endurance, and her timing, balance and coordination will improve. You might even find that you start to see and feel some benefits, too.

“A good conditioning program combines cardiovascular work, flexibility, strength work, speed work and weight control,” explains Mike Bond, agility judge, owner-instructor of Agility Ability school in Naperville, Illinois, and a regular columnist for front and finish, a newspaper devoted to dog obedience training.

A dog needs muscular strength so she can move her body in whatever way she wants to go. She also needs this strength to accelerate fast and get up to speed when she’s running, jumping and playing. And it will help her avoid injury, as well as improve her joint stability.

Endurance training helps your dog keep going over the long term. If she jogs long distances or competes in field trails or other types of sustained activity, then she will really appreciate this. Conditioning and exercise will also strengthen the muscle fibers, and you will have a thoroughly toned dog, says Dr. Zink.

Exercise is also one of the best ways to keep your dog’s weight under control. Feeding smaller portions will probably make her thinner, but burning off excess calories with an exercise program will not only make her thin, it will also make her fit. Letting a dog spend an extra hour or two outside in the backyard won’t do either, say Dr. Bond, because most dogs don’t get much of a workout just puttering around. Conditioning is the key.

Keeping your dog fit is an everyday thing, and conditioning an out – of – shape dog take time. But that’s time the two of you get to hand out together having fun, getting rid of her excess energy and keeping her healthy and happy.

Safe Beginnings:
If all these benefits make you want to put on your running shoes and take your dog along on a five-mile run, that’s great, as long as she likes five miles run and you work up to it gradually. Before starting her on an exercise program, ask your vet to give her a complete physical, advises Dr. Zink. You’ll get a good idea of her general health, and you’ll also know if she has any conditions, such as a heart murmur, diabetes or hip dysplasia, which could mean that certain types of exercise are a problem for her.

Even if your dog has a health problem, she still needs to exercise and be fit. Your vet will put together an exercise regimen for her that she will enjoy and that gets her in good shape without causing her any discomfort.

Travel Accessories for Dogs

There are all kinds of nifty items available to make your vacation with your dog convenient and enjoyable. There are collapsible water dishes for long car rides or hikes through the woods. If your dog is going sailing with you, he’ll need his own life jacket. The canine companion hitting the trail with the family can have his own dog backpack and carry his share of the load. A tie out to restrain your dog at campsites and other outdoor areas always comes in handy.

For safe and comfortable car travel, you might find that a barrier, to create a pooch only area at the back of your station wagon, is just the thing. Or you may want to put him in a car seat harness to restrain and protect him on short trips. You will find these accessories at your local pet supply store, or through dog – oriented mail – order catalogs. Camping and outdoor stores also sometimes carry doggy travel items.

Dog Disease - Allergies and Hay Fever

She scratches. She licks. She bits at herself. In short, she’s itch and she wants it to stop. Before you settle on the obvious culprit and reach for the flea powder, check first that it isn’t an allergy.

Allergies are one of the most common conditions in dogs. In fact, in some parts of North America they even rival fleas as the main cause of canine itching and scratching.

Don’t expect her to sneeze a lot and blow her nose. The telltale signs that your dog has an allergy are:

•She starts licking and chewing at her paws.
•There is redness around her armpits and groin area.
•She rubs her face.
•She generally scratches and itches all over.

It’s unusual for a pup to get an allergy. Most dogs are at least six months and usually more than one year old when they first develop and allergic reaction to a substance, called an allergen. It could be pollens, molds, house dust, and a type of grass – all the same things we have allergies to.

Whether she has her very own “allergy season” – when the allergy affects her at a particular time of the year – or she’s itchy all year long will depend on what the allergen is. For example, if it’s ragweed that she’s allergic to, the itchiness will be worse in the fall; if the problem is house dust, the itchiness’ will probably be a year – round thing.

Easing the Symptoms:
The good news for your dog is that there is a lot you can do to lessen her need for a good scratch. There are products like antihistamines and marine oils that will relieve her symptoms and make her feel a whole lot more comfortable.

Some of the antihistamines designed for relief of allergies in humans are effective in about one-third of canine cases, and you can purchase most from a pharmacy without a prescription. Diphenhydramine (Benadryl), clemastine (Tavist) and chlorpheniramine (Chlortrimeton) have all been used successfully with dogs. Ask your vet to recommend an antihistamine that will suit your pet and the dosage that you will need to give her.

Marine oils are also very useful for treating allergies. These oils, derived from certain cold water fresh fish, contain anti – inflammatory agents. Given daily, they will curb the symptoms in about 20 percent of dogs with allergies. When they are used with antihistamines, the overall success rate jumps to more than 50 percent. So there’s a good chance that you will be able to help alleviate her symptoms, but if not, your vet will investigate further.

Avoiding Allergens:
As a general rule, trees produce pollens in spring, grasses in summer and weeds in the fall. So if your dog’s allergic season is a particular time of year, then this is one clue to tracking down what she’s allergic to. House dust and mold allergies are year-round, although molds tend to be worse during damp periods. A dust mite allergy gets worse when humidity is high. But to be really clear about what your pet is allergic to, you will need to have her allergy tested by your vet.

Once you’ve worked out that either dust, mites, molds or pollens are her problem, there are some preventive measures you can make around your house that could really benefit your allergic dog.

Beware of the bedroom. “Don’t let your house-dust-allergic pet sleep in your bed-room,” says Kevin Byrne, D.V.M., an anima dermatologist and lecturer at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine in Philadelphia. The bedroom has one of the highest dust mite populations in your home, so closing your door at night could be doing her a mighty mite-free favor.

If that’s impossible, Dr. Byrne recommends special covers to control allergies. These encase your mattress, box spring and even pillows to contain the mite population. Contact your local dermatologist – veterinary or human will do – to find out about suppliers near you.

Wash Allergens away. Washing your sheets, blankets and comforters in hot water every seven to ten days is a good way of removing potentially allergy – causing particles, recommends Dr. Byrne. And washing her bedding will get rid of flea eggs and larvae as well. All this washing and cleaning is certainly going to keep you busy, but it’s simple and potentially effective way of making your dog’s life a little less itchy.

Improve the air quality. “Getting a high – efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter can also dramatically reduces house mites, molds and pollens in home,” says Dr. Byrne. “Try to keep the humidity in your home to 50 percent or less, and clean areas where molds can accumulate, such as in air filters of the refrigerator.”

Watch for outdoor problems. Keep her away from recently mown lawns, as these tend to be rich in pollens and molds, suggests Dr. Byrne. And if you know its particular plant or weed that gets her going, at least weed it out of your yard and try to ensure that she doesn’t come into contact with it when out and about.

Keep her covered. Try putting your dog in a T-shirt or sleepers before letting her go outside. This might help to limit allergens coming into direct contact with her skin. Pop her head through the head hole then put her two front legs through the sleeves. With the clothing pulled down over her body, she’s ready to get out among the grasses. For the dog with very sensitive feet, you could also try getting her to wear booties.

Instant Relief:
If she’s having an attack of the scratches and needs immediate, short-term relief, give your dog a bath. This will help remove pollens, molds and dust from her coat, so at least they won’t then be absorbed through the skin. And the water will be soothing on itchy skin.

Run the water cool because warm water will only increase her itchiness. Add something soothing, such as colloidal oatmeal, to the bath water, or rinse her off with medicated rinses containing antihistamines, 1-percent hydrocortisone or topical anesthetics. Your vet can also prescribe a rinse for you to apply after her bath. Don’t wash it off – leave it on so that it can keep working.

You can’t always be giving your dog baths, of course, so in between times, use one of the sprays that are available that have the same itch-relieving properties as those listed above. She will certainly thank you for the relief that these little attentions bring.

House Training Puppies

Bringing home a puppy means lots of fun but also lots of mopping up. Housebreaking is usually the first thing on the training list for new puppies and teaching her that your hardwood floors and Oriental carpets are not her personal restroom can be a challenge. A first time owner might think his puppy has a plumbing problem, but usually it’s just a case of her being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Once you teach her the bathroom basics, she’ll quickly get the idea.

Natural Instinct:
Dogs are naturally clean animals, following in the house-proud tradition of their ancestors, the wolves. They’ll not dirty their eating or sleeping area, and their mothers teach them from day one how to be clean – and not just behind the ears.

“If you follow this instinct for cleanliness when your new puppy comes home, your pup can be house-trained within 48 hours,” says Dennis Fetko, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist in San Diego and host of “Animal Talk with Dr. Dog” on KFMB radio in San Diego. This takes some pretty intensive working with your pup, and you might not be able to spend this much time with her. Using the same philosophy but working more slowly, you’ll get the same result.

Starting Right Away:
“If you take a preventive approach with your puppy right from the beginning, you’ll be far more effective in your house-training,” says Scott line, D.V.M., an animal behaviorist at he Golden Valley Humane Society, and staff veterinarian at the University of Minnesota Veterinary teaching hospital in Minneapolis.

When you bring your puppy home at eight weeks, she is ready to learn that there is a time and a place for everything. “It’s the optimum time to establish good bathroom habits,” says Dr. Fetko. Your puppy wants to make you happy and, despite an accident here, there and everywhere, she will try hard to fit in with her new human owners, who already know how to use the lavatory.

The One – Stop Toilet Spot:
It’s easiest for your dog if you assign one particular area as her toilet spot. In most cases, this will be somewhere in your yard. For apartment dwellers this will be paper spread thickly on one area of the floor.

When dogs relieve themselves, they release scent chemicals that are passed with the waste. These are called pheromones, and when dogs smell them later on, they trigger a reflex that makes them want to eliminate again. This is why it’s a good idea to take your puppy to the same place each time. The odor also lets other dogs know that this patch of ground is taken.

Your dog won’t let this idea fade, either. She will keep freshening up her scent by going back to the same spot over and over again to relieve herself. “That is why you’ll want to control the routine as much as possible,” says Dr. Line.

Toilet Routines:
Knowing when your puppy needs to relieve herself is the key to house-training. Puppies ill always need to go first thing in the morning, last thing at night, when they wake up from a nap, when they leave their crate, after finishing a meal or after a playtime. If you establish a routine and keep your eye on her, you’ll know exactly when she wants to go.

So, when you see her lick her lips after polishing off her dinner, it’s time to visit her toilet spot. Take a walk with he to the area you want her always use. If you are own – you’re going to have the share the early morning chill with her to make sure she finishes what she set out to do.

Your pup may not go straight away when you get to the spot. “Once they’re outside, puppies like to investigate and soon forget what they came out to do,” says Janice DeMello, an Obedience trainer in Somis, California. This explains why you can be outside for an hour waiting for your puppy to use the facilities, and the minute you come back in the house she piddles on the kitchen floor.

DeMello suggests hooking your puppy’s three-foot leash to her before going into your yard. “Keep the puppy in one area on the leash and tell, ‘Get busy,’ When she’s bored checking out the spot, she’ll proceed with the task. Then you can take the leash off.”

When your puppy is successful, let her know she’s done well. Praise her, pat her gently and bring her back inside the house. Never reward your puppy with food for eliminating outdoors. If just jump-starts her system all over again. If, after an hour, your puppy still hasn’t eliminated, you can take her back inside the house, but don’t let her run loose. Put her crate where she won’t make any messes.

Crate-Training:
Putting your dog in a crate may seem cruel, but it’s actually one of the kindest things you can do for her. This will be a cozy spot all of her own where she sleeps, rests and gets away from it all. And it is an excellent way to keep tabs on what she’s up to. There’s no worry she’s going to destroy the place when she’s home alone.

Since dogs won’t soil where they sleep, a crate is indispensable for house-training. “Introduce the puppy to the crate gradually,” advises Suzanne Hetts, Ph. D., an applied animal behaviorist in private practice in Littleton, Colorado. Tempt her inside by throwing in a few puppy biscuits, then let her explore. Praise her when she peeks in to retrieve the food but don’t be in a rush to shut the door. Call the puppy out and praise her, then toss another biscuit in and praise her when she goes in and out on her own.

Once your puppy seems confident about going into her crate, try closing the door for a short period. Open the door and compliment her again. When she goes back in, put an assortment of objects – a soft blanket, a brightly colored toy, and some chew bones – into the crate to keep her company. You can even feed her dinner in there but don’t allow whining or barking after she’s done eating. “If it fits, put the puppy’s crate near your bedroom so you can hear her when she wants to go outside at night,” advises Dr. Hetts. And remember that the minute she’s let out of her crate, the two of you have an appointment with the toilet spot.

“In beginning, you don’t want to crate a young puppy for more than three hours at a time,” says Dr. Hetts. “Leaving a ten – week old pup confined all day is totally inappropriate.” And it should never be used as a punishment – your puppy’s crate should be a place where she likes to spend time. Vary the objects you put in her crate so she looks forward to going three. Once your puppy is four months old, she can spend five hours in her crate after she has been exercised.

Paper – Training:
Maybe there’s a blizzard the week after you get your new friend home. Or she’s a small dog who needs to go to the bathroom more often than a larger dog. Or you live in a high-rise building and you know that taking the elevator down 15 floors every time your dog needs to go is simply not feasible. Perhaps it’s just that your schedule won’t allow for such frequent trips outside. You may have to paper – train her.

Paper – training works because it lets your dog know that there is a special place in the house you want her to use as her bathroom when she can’t get outdoors. To teach her where this spot is, spread several layers of the newspapers over a large plastic sheet on top of the floor (don’t put it on top of the carpet). Leave a slightly soiled paper underneath the fresh paper pile so she knows that this is place you want her to go. As the days progress, make the paper area smaller. When the time comes to move her bathroom training outdoors, take along one of her soiled paper for the first day or two. It will take some time for her to feel comfortable in the new environment and having the familiar scent will ease the transition.

Paper – training should be sued only when you can’t go outside with your pup. It should not be the first step in house – training process. “You will be rewarding the dog for eliminating in the house, but you will still have to train her later to go outside,” says Dr. Fetko. Whatever the difficulties, your pup should be introduced to the toilet in the great outdoors at least once in her first week or two at home.

Preventing Accidents:
In the house, keep your puppy in your sight at all times, suggests Dr. Hetts. This way you’ll minimize the number of accidents she has and she won’t have a chance to develop preferences for going in areas that you consider off limits.

If you pick up the mess as soon as she makes it. Your puppy undivided attention. “If you can’t watch her, confine her to a safe area such as the laundry room or her crate,” suggests Dr. Hetts.

You should also be careful not to overfeed your pup – the more she eats and drinks the more chance she has to mess up. Feed her a well – balanced commercial dog food on a regular schedule of three meals a day. Water should be offered of five times a day. This builds a steady appetite and regulates your dog’s digestion. “Avoid leaving the food out all day if you want to house-train your puppy quickly,” says Patrick Connolly, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Thousand Oaks, California.

Caught in the Act:
If you catch your puppy with a piddle in progress, create a commotion that will startle her. This could be clapping your hands, stomping your foot or shaking some keys. When she stops to listen, pick her up and take her to the right location. As soon as she completes business, praise her lavishly. You should never yell at her, or hit her with your hand or a rolled-up newspaper. This will only teach her not to urinate when you can see her, and she’ll go behind your back instead.

Common Problems and Solutions:
Despite her best intentions, your pup may have relapse and forget what she’s learned. Just patiently repeat the process and it should all come back to her. It’s not always possible to watch your dog carefully, especially when you’re busy during the day. As a result, more accidents occur than would normally, according to Dr. Line. “Just try to not give your puppy opportunities to mess up in the first place,” he says.

For pups who consistently use the wrong spots indoors, such as the bedrooms, stairs on the living room carpet, Dr. Fetko recommends feeding your dog in those locations. Dogs will not soil where they eat.

Another pet in the house, a new baby or a visitor can throw your dog’s bladder control off. This is a sign of insecurity and can be prevented by giving her extra attention during this time.

Another pet in the house, a new baby or a visitor can throw your dog’s bladder control off. This is a sign of insecurity and can be prevented by giving her extra attention during this time.

Some dogs leak a little urine when you bend to pet them. “This isn’t a house – training problem, but over – submissive behavior,” says DeMello. A dog does this to show submissiveness to more dominant dogs or people in her human pack. If your dog is a submissive wetter, don’t punish her as it will just make the problem worse. She needs more confidence. Obedience or agility training will help provide this.

What is Puppyhood

Puppyhood is the period when your dog is immature, physically, mentally and emotionally. It lasts until he reaches adulthood at about 24 months, although this can be later in some large breeds. Here’s what to expect in those 24 months, and how to bring out the best in your pup.

Day 1 to 6 Weeks:
A pup needs his mother’s are and the company of his littermates. At four weeks, he needs about 10 minutes a day outside the puppy pen, being handled gently by a human to develop his individuality. At around six weeks he will start to learn about his place in the pack pecking order. Mom teaches him to respect authority, which will make him more trainable later. Rough – housing with his brothers and sisters makes him less sensitive to body contact and noise, teaches him to behave socially in the pooch world, and also to keep his aggression in check.

7 to 8 Weeks:
This is the ideal age for a pup to move into your home and start finding out what goes on beyond the puppy pen. “After he has had his temporary immunizations, take your pup to all sorts of places,” Advises Chris Walkowicz, a breeder of Bearded Collies in Sherrard, Illinois, author of the perfect match and co-author of Successful Dog breeding. “Put him down, walk away and let him follow you.” This will teach him that you’re the leader of his pack and he’s a faithful follower. Set up situations where he can follow every family member, including the kids. This is the critical member, including socialization, warns Walkowicz. It won’t come again, so don’t miss it.

Puppies this age can learn what simple commands such as “Sit” and “Come” means. You can also start gentle leash training. But these lessons can wait a week or two, if necessary.

8 to 10 Weeks:
More than anything, your puppy needs to feel secure right now. This is the “fear imprint period,” when puppies can easily be traumatized and may never forget what frightened them. ”Some pups are more affected than others,” says Walkowicz, “but this isn’t a good time to take your puppy to a rock concert in the park.”

At this age, puppies love to learn, as long as the teaching is gentle and consistent. Knowing how to please you by coming when called will bolster his confidence, and sticking to a schedule will also make him feel safe. Continue socializing him; eight weeks is the ideal time to enroll him in puppy-training classes.

10 to 12 Weeks:
Now’s the time to add to your pup’s social activities and continue gentle training. “If he has not been leash trained or learned his puppy ‘Sit’ and ‘Come,’ start now,” says Walkowicz. He should accompany you to new places, both indoor and outdoor; meet friendly people of all ages, other puppies and gentle adult dogs.

12 to 16 Weeks:
During these weeks, your bundle of fun will continue to need a heap of attention and plenty of social activities. Keep up the training with your puppy, but be gentle. Some pups go through an “avoidance” period at this age, peeping from behind your legs when you go out, or crawling under the couch when company arrives. If he’s been okay around people and other dogs until now, his shyness will probably be short-lived. Keep his social life low-key but regular for a while if he keeps hiding.

16 Weeks to 6 Months:
The juvenile period begins at 16 weeks. While your pup is fully developed mentally, he still has some physical and emotional growing to do, and he won’t have an adult attention span. The name of the game is consistency – keep your expectations the same from day to day so he doesn’t get confused. Take him out to meet humans and other dogs, and have short, upbeat training sessions. Integrate training into everyday life, for example, by having him sit while you prepare his dinner. He may be clumsy now, but that’s just adolescence. He’ll be graceful when he’s grown.

6 to 12 Months:
Your puppy reaches puberty, or sexual maturity, during these months, and male youngsters may try out being pushy. You’ll notice that your pooch’s attention span has improved. “Training of some kind should be ongoing, whether it’s for obedience or just tricks for fun,” advises Walkowicz. Some dogs go through a second avoidance period at around ten months of age, but they are usually happy – go – lucky again by one year old.

12 to 24 Months:
This is when your youngster becomes an adult, although some dogs won’t reach emotional maturity until they’re about 30 months old. Congratulations to you both.

Professional Training Schools

Some times owners don’t’ have the knowledge or confidence to train their own dog. They may not have the time or the inclination, or they may not have the time or the inclination, or they may be physically unable to do so. Luckily, there are special training schools that you can take your dog to. Each school might use different training methods, but your dog should attend a program he enjoys, but your dog should attend a program he enjoys. If his tail is wagging and his ears are up when you return for a second visit, you’ll know that the program is a success. A good training school will carefully evaluate each dog and recommend to his owner what kind of training is suitable. Many schools offer both private lessons and resident programs where your dog stays overnight. A private lesson lasts from 45 minutes to an hour and will take place once a week for a couple of weeks. A dog attending a resident program can receive as many as three to six 20 minute training sessions a day with plenty of downtime in between. A hardworking dog will be able to learn the basics within about five days.

Choosing a Good School:
If you’ve decided to get some training help, set about finding a reputable training school in your area. Ask other dog owners or your vet for recommendations. Take some time to visit schools that interest you. You don’t have to be a super sleuth to check out a training school, but a look behind the scenes wouldn’t hurt. Have a look at the space you clean and inviting? If you think you would like to learn something in this environment, chances are your dog will, too. If you feel uncomfortable, so might your dog.

Find out what your dog will be taught and ask to observe a training session. Watch how the dogs respond to the trainer. Do they seem happy? Do they want to please the trainer? How does the trainer reach if a dog doesn’t understand him? Ask what experience the trainer has. Anyone can call himself a dog trainer, but a serious trainer will usually be a member of the national association of Professional Dog trainers. The school should also provide a contract that includes follow up lessons with the owner. Chatting with the people who will be taking care of your dog while he’s at the school will also reveal the school’s general philosophy. Make sure there are provisions for adequate medical care in case your dog has a health problem. Only if it all seems satisfactory should you sign up.

Pros and Cons:
The advantage of having a professional train your dog is that he gets trained faster. The trainer knows what works for your dog and will be able to teach you how to follow up the training. The school might also be able to offer specialized training, such as search – and – rescue work.
The downside is that when someone else trains your dog, they automatically build up a bond. Your dog may respond perfectly to the school trainers, but when you get him back home, he may not respond to you. You’ll need to spend time building up your own bond with him and learning, from the professionals, how to give consistent commands. And not everyone may be able to afford tuition at these schools, which typically costs from $100 to $1000, depending on the amount of training involved.

Obedience Classes:
If you can’t bear to send your dog away, you can enroll him in obedience classes that you attend with him. This way you can participate in your dog’s training, but still receive the help and guidance of professionals. Obedience classes also give your dog an opportunity to meet other dogs and owners, which helps to socialize him. Try to find a class that doesn’t have more than ten dogs per instructor.

The instructor will demonstrate appropriate commands, rewards and corrections for you to follow with your dog. No dog will be a model student so doesn’t be embarrassed if your dog misbehaves in class. Don’t be shy about speaking up to your dog either. It doesn’t matter if people are watching. Chances are he’ll do the same thing in public. And if you’re hesitant to correct him in class, where everyone shares the same goals, it will be even harder out in the big world.

Obedience classes usually meet once a week for six to eight weeks and last for an hour or 90 minutes. Some dogs might take two or three courses of instruction before they’re well trained.

Is your Dog Ready to Learn?

Dogs can be trained at any age, but the best results are usually achieved with puppies. So start teaching your dog as soon as you bring him home. Dogs need routine and are keen to please their owners, so you should find yourself with an eager student. But remember, training takes patience and persistence – short cut won’t get you anywhere.

Training Puppies:
Puppies are learning all the time. “They’re capable of doing anything from seven to eight weeks,” says Amy Marder, Ph. D., animal behavior consultant to Angell Memorial Animal Hospital in Boston, and pet columnist for prevention magazine. “Maybe they can’t do prefect heels, but they can learn to sit at that age.”

Coordinating their body parts is another story. “Puppies aren’t very agile at that age,” says Dr. Marder. So forget perfection and focus on play training. Since young pups are curious about everything, seize those moments to begin your lessons. If you’re out in the yard together and a sudden breeze sends a leaf fluttering toward you, your puppy will naturally scamper after it. Tell him, “Get it, get it!” and when he catches it say, “Good puppy!” You’ve given his chasing a name that you can use again later when you want to teach him how to retrieve.

You can also train your puppy to “Come” long before he’s four months old. Whenever you set his food dish down, call his name over and over again in an excited, happy voice – “Puppy, puppy!” After a few times he’ll come flying to you when he hears this familiar call.

But it’s important not to go overboard with a new pup. “Keep your other training sessions brief, perhaps several five-minute sessions a day,” says Sharon Crowell – Davis, Ph.D., professor of veterinary animal behavior at the University of Georgia in Atlanta. “Puppies have a much shorter attention span than older dogs, and they’d rather play,” she adds. You want to make training sessions a treat, not a chore, for your pup.

The Older Dog:
Don’t believe that you can’t teach old dog new tricks. Dr. Crowell – Davis says the only difficulty in training older dogs is having to untrain incorrect behavior they’ve already learned. “If you’re teaching a new behavior, your older dog should pick it up right away. By age six to seven, a little earlier in larger breeds, a dog is in the prime of life and has the best attention span.”
Some dogs older than eight become less responsive to commands. They still want to learn but lack the energy. Their reactions may slow down and their memory may be fading. If your new dog is a senior, have your veterinarian evaluate his health before beginning his training program.

Training Techniques for All Ages:
Use the same training techniques with puppies as you do with older dogs. They work because no matter what the age, dogs want to please you and be rewarded. “Always use positive reinforcement and if you need more help with an adult, try a choke chain for training,” says Dr. Marder.

Different learning Speeds:
Every breed of dog has been bred to perform different tasks, and this affects how fast your dog will be able to learn. “There are real differences in the breeds’ anatomy, the senses and natural levels of motivation,” says Dr. Crowell-Davis. A narrow-chested dog, such as a Saluki, is extremely fast and ahs remarkable sight. He will have a hard time lying down and staying there, but if you ask him to run after an object he will be able to do that in a flash. More sedentary dogs, such as Bloodhounds, Labrador and Golden Retrievers, will probably be much better at learning how to lie down on command.

If you want quick results, match the tricks with the right dog. A Golden Retriever has been bred to fetch wildfowl, so teach him to bring back a ball. Don’t bother him with sled dog racing. But if you want a challenge, try training a Chow Chow, whose ancestors were guard dogs, to bring back a dumbbell in record time. It’s likely he will act as if it’s beneath him to fetch anything. “If one dog excels in one area, he may not be quite so good in another,” says Dr. Crowell-Davis.

Different diets for Different Dogs

While all dogs need the important nutrients in their diet, how much they need depends on their age, health and level of activity. Adhering to a special diet may be as easy as picking pet food designed for puppies off the grocery shelf or carefully regulating when and how much you feed your diabetic dog. If you ever have a question as the whether your dog should be on a special diet, talk it over with your vet.

Puppies:
Anyone who has watched a puppy grow into adulthood knows how quickly pudgy little faces mature into decidedly grown up looking mugs. And how quickly that ball of waddling fur becomes a gangly, all – legs adolescent tearing through your home.
It’s not surprising then that, pound – for – pound; puppies need more calories than adult dogs. After all, it’s during that first year that a dog will experience the greatest amount of her whole life.

“Young puppies need energy and balanced nutrients at levels up to three times what they will need as adults,” explains Dorothy Laflamme, D.V.M., a veterinary nutritionist in the St. Louis area, and vice – president of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition. “This decreases after about four months, but remains greater than adult needs until the puppy is fully grown at ten months to two years, depending on when the breed reaches maturity.”

Puppies also require more high – quality protein, which they can get from eggs, milk or cottage cheese. These are both tasty and easily digested. Or you can opt for commercially prepared puppy food, which is formulated with the special requirements for puppies in mind.

Don’t Overdo It:
Most pups are weaned between six to eight weeks, so your pup will already be eating solid food by the time you bring her home. Even though it seems as is she wants to eat you out of house and home, don’t let her. She will have growth spurts, but you should feed her only the amount she needs to maintain a steady, average rate of growth. “There’s this general American picture of the perfect healthy puppy being roly – poly, which is absolutely wrong,” says Julie. Churchill, D.V.M., an assistant clinical specialist in small animal nutrition at the University of Minnesota’s College of Veterinary Medicine in St. Paul. “Erring on the side of lean is better than overfeeding, especially with large breeds.”

If your dog eats too much, she’ll grow too fast, which could spell trouble later. Rapid, disproportionate growth of bones and muscles could lead to hip dysplasia and other joint problems.

Puppies that will eventually grow up into big dogs are especially susceptible grow up into big dogs are especially susceptible to musculoskeletal problems is going to grow to an adult size of more than 75 pounds is on a different, rapid growth curve that extends over a longer period of time and must be fed accordingly,” explains Dr. Churchill. “We’ve seen a significant impact in the reduction of orthopedic problems in dogs that have been kept lean from puppyhood.”

It is also important to keep down the calcium levels in food your large puppy eats. Too much calcium can actually interfere with her normal bone and cartilage development. “For large breeds, calcium should make up no more than 1.1 percent of the dry matter,” says Dr. Churchill. While you won’t find this information on any pet food labels, you can call the manufacturer’s toll-free line for a more detailed nutritional analysis. The call will be well worth your while, given that you could help prevent your dog from developing a painful condition.

“These very small puppies should be fed small amounts at least four times a day when they are very young to make sure they receive adequate nutrition,” she says. “Once the are 10 to 12 weeks old, three times a day is adequate, and then twice a day after about four months.”

Puppy Food until When?
Growing puppies require proportionately more calories and nutrients than their adult counterparts. But when a pup’s rate of growth slows noticeably, that’s a good time to switch her to an adult maintenance diet. “As a general rule, when a dog has reached 75 to 80 percent of her adult size, it is a good time to switch from puppy food to an adult diet,” says Dr. Remillard.
“When that actually occurs for each dog is quite variable. We’re talking about the most diverse species on the planet, with some adult dogs weighing 2 pounds and others 200 pounds.” Generally, the smaller the dog, the earlier she will reach what is considered maturity.

Hard – and – fast rules are difficult when you’re dealing with this level of diversity. Your vet will be able to advise you. Watch for changes in her eating patterns and be aware of the average adult weight for her breed. With puppies of mixed breed, use the four month rule of thumb: at four months, a puppy is roughly half her adult size. While hardly scientific, it’s still a fairly useful benchmark if you’re uncertain just what exotic mix of breeds you’re working with.

Frequent Feeding:
Puppy tummies are small so they can’t hold enough food at one time to see them through an entire day. Until your puppy is about four or five months of age, feed her three meals a day. Be sure to moisten her chow with warm water if you feed her dry puppy food. Not only does this make it tastier, but it’s also easier for her to eat with her puppy teeth until they fall out and are replaced by permanent teeth.

From four or five months until about nine months of age, feed your puppy twice a day. If she still enjoys her food moistened, indulge her for a while. But remember that crunching on dry food will be better for her teeth in the long run, since the chewing action cleans them.

By 10 or 11 months, you can probably start feeding your puppy an adult diet once a day. When you switch your puppy to a maintenance diet, reduce the number of feeds. If you choose to feed her a different food, make the changeover gradually. This will be easier on her digestive system and her taste buds. Over seven to ten days, substitute ever – increasing amounts of the new food for her customary fare.

Pregnant or Lactating dogs:
Pregnancy is a good time to pamper your dog – just be sure not to confuse pampering with pigging out. There’s no need to increase her daily rations until around about the third trimester, when she’s seven weeks pregnant, and then only by about 10 to 20 percent. The real eating starts after the pups are born. “Don’t overfeed your dog during pregnancy underfeed during lactation,” says Dr. Remillard. “If she gains too much weight during gestation, she can have trouble whelping the puppies.”
After a dog delivers her puppies, you should increase her daily ration by another 10 percent for the first day after she gives birth. Then let her eat to her heart’s content (no boxes of chocolates, of course). Feed by “free choice” rather than on a schedule during the first five weeks of lactation, recommends Dr. Remillard.

The puppies’ demand for milk will increase daily for the first 20 to 30 days, so the mother must be allowed to eat what she needs to keep up with her family’s demands. There’s another plus to having food readily available during this time. “At about three weeks, the puppies start nosing around in their mother’s food and very shortly will be getting a good part of their nutritional requirements this way,” says Dr. Remillard.

“Lactating dogs have very high nutrient needs, as much as three to four times what’s normal,” says Dr. Laflamme. “They should be fed diets intended either for growth and reproduction or all life stages. Adult foods may be too low in calories or nutrients. Yet it’s important to return her to pre-pregnancy levels of intake after the puppies are weaned so that she avoids any weight gain.” And make all dietary changes gradually.

Older Dogs:
Feeding an older dog is often similar to feeding a less active dog. It’s not your dog’s age that matters so much as her retired way of life. But while she may need only three quarters of the calories of her former diet = because she prefers daily strolls to daily jogs now – her need for the essential nutrients may be proportionately higher.

“Older dogs require very good quality protein,” explains Dr. Dorosz. “By products, such as hair and hooves, are protein, but of low quality. By comparison, eggs provide the highest quality of protein.” Buy a premium food or ask your vet to recommend a food for your aging pet.

Be careful not to overfeed an older dog .too much food combined with a low activity level could easily cause her to pack on the pounds, and that could lead to health problems. “Obesity is the number – one nutritional disease among all dogs,” says Dr. Churchill. “And some older dogs may become prone to it if their appetite continues and their exercise decreases, which are why reducing the calories in the diet can be helpful.”

Some food formulated for older dogs restrict protein to prevent kidney problems. However, such a cutback may not be necessary, says Dr. Churchill, since renal disease is not common in older dogs. And if your dog doesn’t actually have a problem, there is really no need to restrict the amount of protein she eats. “If she’s getting regular veterinary care and has a diet tailored to meet her individual condition, that should be fine,” Dr. Churchill advises.

Working Dogs:
While you might consider a hard game of fetch in the backyard with your dog a real workout, it’s probably more taxing for you than your dog. True working dogs are the breeds that herd sheep or cattle, that run arduous sled races or spend hours in a cold, wet marsh with their duck-hunting owners. And they need a diet rich in high-quality protein and fat to maintain peak stamina and good body condition.

“Dogs differ from us in several respects,” says Dr. Dorosz. “They have more heart and muscle in comparison to their total body weight, and their cardio – respiratory system is superior to ours.” Also, dogs do not sweat in the same way people dog. Depending on the breed, the dog has greater stamina and oxygen capacity than us, too.

The Big Day for Dogs

If your dog could talk, you know she’d probably be saying that the sooner those pups are out of there, the better. You’ve had the puppy shower and she’s become quite used to the new whelping box. In fact, over the past few days, she’s been nesting and tearing up the newspaper in there every time you check. If looks as if her big day can’t be too far away.

What to Watch Food:
Two or three days before delivery, your dog may lose her appetite and have a slight discharge of thick, clear mucus from her vagina. During the last week of pregnancy, you may want to take her temperature twice a day. You’ll know that the birth is imminent when her temperature drops below 99 degree F – the pups will probably start putting in an appearance within in 24 hours or so.

Make sure you have arranged for someone to be with you having arranged for someone to be with you for the delivery, just in case there is a problem and you need to play midwife. No matter how much your dog loves you, if she’s in pain she may bite, so another pair of caring hands can help to hold her. “Whelping should never be done alone,” says Dr. Wilcox.

Stage One:
Signs that the mother-to-be has entered the first stage of labor are panting, shivering and restlessness. She may also vomit. As the pups move into position for delivery, her belly will begin to sag, explains Dr. Wilcox. She may walk around, unable to get comfortable, and she may come to you often, so give her lots of reassurance. This stage can last from 6 to 24 hours – it’s different for each dog.

Stage Two:
As labor continues, she’ll finally settle down to the serious business of pushing. She may lie on her side as the contractions increase, sometimes panting, whining and groaning. Stay calm, speak softly and lovingly, and stoke her slowly to help her feel better.

“It’s best not to heave the whole family watching,” says Dr. Mcardle. She doesn’t want to be distracted or disturbed. You’ll know she’s about to give birth when you see a sac emerging.

Hello Puppies!
Your dog may give birth lying down or standing up. If she prefers to stand, you’ll need to be there to catch the pups. As a pup is delivered, the mother tears the placental membranes in which the puppy in wrapped and eats them. The puppy then takes his first breath. Mom bites off the umbilical cord and may eat the afterbirth, which usually appears a few minutes after the pup. She’ll then lick the puppy, it means that a placenta has remained in the uterus, and your veterinarian will need to remove it to make sure that your dog doesn’t develop an infection.

If your dog doesn’t remove the placental membranes from a pup within five minutes of birth, or doesn’t bite through the pup’s umbilical cord, you’ll need to get into the act. “Keep his head down and use a little bulb syringe to suction out and mucus in the mouth,” Dr. Craft says. “Clamp off the umbilical cord with your fingers, then cut it with blunt – nosed scissors. Tie the cord off with unwaxed dental floss or thread, and dab the area with iodine to disinfect it. Rub the puppy vigorously with a clean hand towel. You want to hear him cry.”

The pups may appear every few minutes, or your dog may rest for an hour or two between each delivery. After all the pups are born, you will probably see a green, dark red or brown discharge. This odorless fluid is a natural part of her body’s cleansing process and may last several weeks. There’s no need to worry about this unless an odor develops, which could mean there’s an infection and you should see the vet.

When to Help:

As the birth proceeds, keep your eye on the clock and jot down when things start and stop. If your dog seems to be having hard contractions, is panting and pushing, and seems stressed, one of the puppies may have become lodged across the birth canal instead of heading downward. If a puppy doesn’t appear within 20 minutes of continual strong contractions, call your vet for advice. He may talk you through turning the pup or recommend that you bring your dog in. this is probably the most common problem during delivery, says Dr. Wilcox. “The first puppy dilates the cervix, but not enough. As there may not be time to get to a vet, you will have to help with the delivery.”

To be the midwife, reach up to the cervix with your fingers (make sure your hands are clean and your nails trimmed) to see how the puppy is positioned. Most pups come out nose first, stomach down, but it’s also fine if they’re born rear-first. Hold the pup’s body – not his legs or head – firmly but gently, and let the contractions push the pup out. Remember that your dog is probably frightened and in pain, so have somebody hold her head to prevent her biting you.

After – Birth Care:
Check that the puppies are all nursing strongly and that everyone has found a nipple. It’s vital for them to get milk from their mother during the first three days of life. That first milk has a substance called colostrums, which provides antibodies that protect the puppies from disease until they can be vaccinated.

Weight each puppy and jot down the weight in a notebook. You’ll need to weigh them on a gram or ounce scale every 12 hours for at least the first week, to make sure they are gaining weight. It’s the easiest way to make sure they’re thriving. And if they’re not, you may need to supplement their feeding with formula. “The puppies should remain vigorous,” says Dr. Craft.

It’s also a good idea to have mother and pups checked by your vet in the first 24 hours. He can make sure there aren’t any other puppies still inside the uterus, or any retained placentas, and cleft palates or any other problems.

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Labrador - Basic Body Care

Good natural anatomy and a protective coat mean that routine maintenance for Labradors is minimal. A hunting dog by nature, much of the general wear and tear arises from running around, jumping in and out of water, and rolling in the mud. Check the cleanliness of all body opening daily.

Ensuring Clear, Healthy Eyes:
Healthy eyes are bright and sparkling with dull pink mucous membranes. Some older Labradors have droopy lower eyelids which allow debris to collect, causing inflammation. Bathe the area round your dog’s eyes daily with cotton wool moistened with tepid salt water. If the eyes appear reddened or cloudy, or show any discharge or signs of squinting, contact your veterinarian to arrange a thorough examination.

Brushing the Teeth:
Check daily for any items lodged in the mouth or between the teeth. Once a week clean the teeth, avoiding human toothpaste as it froths and will be swallowed. Use an up – and – down motion with a soft brush to massage the gums.

Prevent Tartar:
Without routine cleaning, tartar can accumulate on the teeth, leading to bad breath, root infection, and gum disease. In addition to regular professional scaling, rawhide chews are helpful in controlling tartar build – up. This Labrador’s teeth and gums require medical attention.

Inspecting the Ears:
Examine the ears daily for foreign material such as grass seeds, and for inflammation, wax, or odour. Remove excess wax carefully with a dampened tissue; a cotton bud can act like a plunger and push wax further into the ear.

Cutting the Nails:
A Labrador’s nails seldom need clipping. If they do grow long, command your dog to sit and use non – crushing “guillotine” clipper. Yellow Labradors’ pink nails are the easiest to trim, as the quick is clearly visible. With black or chocolate dogs, take extra care to avoid this sensitive area.
Where to clip nails the pink interior, called the quick or nail bed, contains blood vessels and nerves. Always cut in front of the quick. If unsure, ask your vet to demonstrate the correct technique.

Washing the Paws:
Wash dirt off the paws with tepid or cool water, rubbing your fingers between the pads to remove hardened mud. Avoid hot water, especially in cold weather, and only use cleansers safe for human skin. Rinse and dry the paws thoroughly afterwards.

Anal Hygiene:
Excessive licking or dragging of the rear can mean that the scent – producing anal sacs are blocked, causing discomfort. Wearing protective gloves squeeze the sacs empty applying firm pressure from both sides. Use absorbent materials to collect the fluid.

Unwanted Sniffing

When two dogs meet, they will inevitably spend the first few minutes sniffing each other’s private parts. “Sniffing is your dog’s way of learning information about anew animal,” says Dr. Spiegel. Because dogs have such a strong and powerful sense of smell they can often detect whether they have been around other animals or not.

So when your dog meets new people, it’s only natural that he greets them by sniffing. Your dog might even think there is nothing wrong in lifting this behavior makes many people rather uncomfortable – especially if the sniffing gets outs of hand – so it’s up to you to teach your dog to greet your human friends in a manner that is more socially acceptable.

Stop That Sniffing:
To prevent your dog from getting too pushy in other people’s private places, put your dog’s collar and leash on when you are expecting guests. Be ready to correct him with a “Leave it” command and a slight jerk on the leash if he tries to nosey around where you don’t want to. Follow the “Leave it” command with a “Sit” or “Down” command so that you can praise your dog when he complies with your wishes.

If your dog sniffs you in such a way, don’t step backward or move out of his reach. Your dog will interpret this as submissive behavior and he’ll begin to think that he’s in charge. Instead, make him back away from you by moving forward into him and saying “No!” in a strong, clear voice. You can also offer him a substitute item to become interested in and reward him for leaving you alone.

A dog’s desire to sniff can increase tenfold when you take him outdoors for his daily exercise sessions. If your dog is the kind who sniffs constantly while you’re out walking, use the same “Leave it” command and a little leash correction. This way he’ll know he doesn’t have to investigate every odor he encounters.

Labrador - Food For Your Dog

As a breed, the Labrador Retriever has been dubbed the “walking stomach”. If your Labrador refuses to eat, it is time to call your vet. Choose from commercial and home – prepared foods to meet dietary needs and personal tastes, but remember that you control what your dog eats, not the dog.

Canned Foods:
Moist, meaty canned foods come in a wide range of flavors and textures to satisfy your Labrador’s appetite. High in protein, they are usually mixed with dry dog meal to add calories and vital carbohydrates. Canned foods are nutritious and tasty, but will not stay fresh in the bowl for more than a few seconds. Crunchy dry meal is added to canned food to improve the texture, contribute fiber and fat, as well as exercise the jaws.

Complete Dry Foods:
Complete dry foods are well – balanced and convenient to store in bulk. Concentrated, they contain about four times the calories of canned foods, so a dog needs smaller quantities. There are varieties to suit all ages and for specific needs, including weight control or medical conditions such as bowel inflammation or impaired kidney function.

High - Energy:
Puppies require nutrient – rich, easily – digestible food to sustain growth.

Regular:
Adult formulas maintain mature dogs on a variety of activity levels.

Low – Calorie:
Older, overweight, or sedentary dogs need less energy from their food.

Teeth – Cleaning:
These large, crunchy chunks promote healthy gums and help control tartar.

Semi – Moist Foods:
These foods are packaged in many flavors, even cheese, and have three times the calories of canned foods. High carbohydrate content makes semi – moist foods unsuitable for diabetic dogs. Like dry foods, they can be left out all day to be eaten at leisure – although Labradors are rarely so picky!

Suitable Chews:
Labradors need large, hard chews to work their teeth and massage the gums. Avoid small chews that may be swallowed or sterilized bones which can break teeth.

Treats and Biscuits:
It is fun to give your dog snack foods, but remember that many are high in calories and can lead to obesity. Offer snacks as rewards, not on demand, and limit the amount given daily. The more your Labrador receives, the smaller its regular meals should be.

Table Foods:
In general, a diet that is well – balanced for us is also nourishing for canines. Never encourage begging by feeding scraps from the table, but prepare a special portion for your dog consisting of equal parts meat and vegetables, pasta, or rice. Avoid strong spices.

Light Meals:
Labradors enjoy routine and are content with the same food each day. However, an occasional change is fine as long as it is easily digested. Breakfast cereals and bred are good ingredients for a light meal.

Labrador - Your New Puppy

Ideally, buy your Labrador puppy from a recommended breeder when it is about eight weeks old. Older puppies may find it harder adapting to a new home. Make a careful choice after adapting to a new home. Make a careful choice after viewing several litters, and then get everything ready to help ensure a smooth introduction for all.

Choosing the Right Puppy:
Visiting a litter watches the puppies together; some may be retiring, others more bold. Remember that the most outgoing puppy may grow up to be the most independent adult, while the most withdrawn could become the shyest. Decide which sex you prefer, and then select a puppy that seems bright, alert, and healthy.

The One For you:
When picking up or holding a very young puppy, always support its hindquarters. The puppy should feel firm, and surprisingly heavy. Ask to see the parent’s registration documents, and certificates verifying that they are free from hereditary medical conditions, including eye disease and hip dysplasia. Ultimately, of course your final decision will rest on a particular puppy’s looks and unique, endearing behavior.

Meet The Parents:
Responsible breeders are proud of their breeding stock and will be delighted to introduce you to the litter’s mother and also the father if available. The parents’ appearance and behavior will give some idea of your puppy’s mature size and likely temperament. Do not buy a puppy from individuals who are unable to show you the mother; they may not be genuine breeders but agents for puppy mills. All reputable breeders will also permit you to return a puppy immediately if your vet feels there is good reason to do so.

Settling in at Home:
Getting acquainted as soon as you arrive home with your new puppy, introduce it to its own “den” – a crate lined with soft bedding is ideal. Initially, make the crate inviting by placing food treats or toys inside, and leave the door open when the door is hut, a resident dog can investigate without fear of harassment.

First Night Alone:
The first night that your puppy is away from its brothers and sisters and in new surroundings is always the most difficult. Provide it with a chewable toy for comfort and, if you are willing, place the crate in your bedroom so the puppy is reassured by your presence cries. However, or you will unwittingly train your puppy to whine for attention.

Sweet Dreams:
With a little perseverance, your puppy will learn to settle down and sleep. Set your alarm so that you can get up during the night for the first few weeks to take you puppy to relieve itself. Alternatively, line one side of the crate with bedding and the other with newspaper for soiling when your puppy is a bit older, it should happily accept sleeping outside of your bedroom.

Labrador - Breed Characteristics

LABRADOR-BREED CHARACTERISTICS
The Labrador Retriever’s official breed standard was originally developed by people who used this obedient, happy dog as a working companion. Today, the standard continues to emphasize the gentle, eager-to-please nature of this most affable of dog, as well as a body conformation eminently suited for working on land and in water.

Muscular And Well Balanced:
The Labrador stands firmly on solid, powerful forelimbs. It toes are webbed for speed and endurance when swimming, while the chest is not excessively wide, allowing easy movement of the well-muscled legs.

Uncomplicated, Robust Body:
A strongly muscled, agile physique well equips the Labrador for a vigorous working role in all terrains. Its short, straight, and dense top coat, overlying soft down, further provides waterproofing and protection from ground cover. The Labrador’s sturdy, purposeful frame features a straight upper contour and an almost level underline with little tuck-up at the groin.

Neck:
Substantial and muscular, with clean firm lines.

Skull:
Broad, with defined indentation at base of muzzle; clean-cut head has unflashy cheeks and medium-length, powerful jaws.

Forequarters:
Shoulders long and sloping, supported by strong-boned forelegs, perfectly straight from elbow to ground.

Ears:
Closing-hanging, neither large nor heavy, and set rather for back.

Eyes:
Friendly, medium-sized dark eyes are placed well apart.

Nose:
Wide nose with large nostrils on broad muzzle.

Teeth:
Upper teeth closely overlap lower in “scissors’ bite.

Double coat:
Short, dense outer coat without feathering or waving covers soft, waterproof down.

Back:
Top line of body is level, carried above short, wide, and strong loins.

Body:
Chest well muscled and powerfully built, of good width and depth, with barrel-shaped ribcage.

Hindquarters:
Broad, muscular, and very strongly developed straight and not sloping to tail, with sturdy, well-defined thighs.

Tail:
Medium-length rounded, “otter-like” tail is very thick at base, gradually tapering to tip, with no feathering.

Feet:
Rounded and compact, with well-arched, webbed toes and generous pads.
Good-Natured, Devoted Companion:
With a typically wide head and slightly pronounced brows, even this distinctively masculine Labrador has a gentle look which is synonymous with the breed.

Labrador - Indoor Training

Although Labradors love the outdoors, your dog is likely to spend much of its life with you in your home. Make sure that it understands basic “house rules”, and provide it with its own personal space to retire to. Give your pet satisfying time and attention, but always on your own terms.

Learning to Wait Patently:
You are the leader of the pack, and you decide what happens and when. Do not respond to your dog’s demand for attention or let it initiate activities. Every dog should have some private space – a bed or a crate that it can call its own. Your Labrador will learn to retire happily to its “den” while you are relaxing or busy with household chores.

Spending Quality Time Together:
Nurturing the bond between you and your dog is not only enjoyable, but strongly reinforces basic obedience. Set aside time each day to offer your Labrador some indoor physical and mental activity. Vary the hour and type of play or your dog will expect a certain game at a given time.

Accepting Strangers at Home:
Although Labradors are inclined to enjoy visitors, ensure your dog is not a nuisance by training it to sit when a guest arrives. This will discourage territorial guarding and help curb any over-excitement. Ask visitors initially to disregard your pet, to instill a sense of calm. Always reward good behavior with approving words, a gentle stroke, or a favorite treat.

Relinquishing a Forbidden Item:
Labradors are inveterate retrievers and often take items they find, especially those with attractive odours, back to their beds. Train your dog, using food rewards, to drop and surrender objects on command. A possessive dog should be taught that even its toys ultimately belong to you.

Understanding what is wrong:
Use a stern voice and an assertive stance to admonish your dog when it does, something wrong. Reprimand on the spot; otherwise it will not understand why you are angry.

Follow simple Retraining Rules:
Remember the principles of basic training and always go back to those if problems develop in adulthood. Virtually all undesirable behavior can be corrected if your dog understands simple obedience – to come, sit, lie down, and stay. Everything else is window dressing. Labrador Retrievers are more trainable than many other breeds and have a good but limited ability to understand language. Be careful not to overload your dog with information; use short, sharp words, and issue commands only when you know that you can enforce them.

Labrador - Come, Sit, Down and Stay

Training your puppy to come, sit, lie down and stay down is most important both for the safety of your dog and for harmonious relations with your family, friends, and outside the home. Labradors are among the most trainable of all breeds, and usually respond superbly to food rewards.

Come and Sit
1. Train only for a few minutes at a time twice daily when you, and your puppy, are alert. Try to work in a quiet, narrow space such as a hallway, with no distractions. Holding the puppy on a loose lead, briskly and cheerfully call its name and let it see that you have a food treat in your hand. As it begins to move, give the command “come”. Always be enthusiastic and encouraging. While your puppy walks towards you, praise it by saying “Good dog”.

2. When your puppy reaches you, move the treat above its head. To keep its eye on the for, the puppy will naturally sit. As it does so, issue the command “Sit” and immediately give the reward. Repeat the exercise regularly until your puppy responds to words alone.

The Value of “No!”
It is vital for everyone’s well-being that your puppy quickly understand the meaning of “No!” with this one word, you can regain control and even prevent an accident. Just as you use a friendly voice and warm body language to reward, adopt a stern tone and a dominant stance when issuing this reprimand. There is no need to shout; most Labradors are exceptionally eager to please, once they know what behavior you want. Nevertheless, it is best to practice all basic obedience commands indoors before moving outside, where your dog will be more easily diverted.

Follow Down:
1. Kneel beside the seated puppy, holding its collar with one hand, and place the treat by its nose. If your puppy tries to get up, tuck its hindquarters under with your free hand say “Sit”. If it lunges for the food, use a less exciting reward like a soft squeaky toy.
2. Move the treat forwards and down; your puppy will follow it with its nose. As it starts to lie down, give the command “Down”. If the puppy refuses, gently raise the front legs into a begging position, then lower it down, rewarding its compliance with praise.

3. Still holding the collar, continue to move the food treat forwards and down until your puppy is lying completely flat. Then reward the puppy with the treat and praise. Take care not to praise excessively, as this can encourage your puppy to jump up.

Stay Down:
With practice, your Labrador should learn to stay down until commanded to rise. If it will not obey, kneel beside it and press over its shoulders. After a few seconds, release the puppy, saying “OK”. Response to the “Down” command is important in potentially hazardous situations.

Labrador - Early Training Exercise

As soon as you bring your puppy home, begin gentle training for obedience and hygiene. Reward good behavior with praise, stroking, or food treat. Provide toys to keep your puppy alert and occupied, and arrange regular contact with other dogs to ensure proper social development.

Learning With Rewards:
Verbal praise Labradors are eager pupils and learn quickly. Even a very young puppy will be sensitive to your manner and tone of voice, and will understand when you are genuinely pleased with its behavior. Enthusiastic words of approval should always accompany and other type of reward.

Stroking Reward:
Touch is an intensely powerful reward. Your puppy will naturally want to be stroked, but do not comply on demand. Offer petting in response to good conduct, so that obedience is associated with desired physical attention.
Food Treat:
The Labrador gives the impression that a large portion of its brain is dedicated to a constant search for food. Exploit this breed characteristic by using low-calorie treats such as vitamin tablets as primary rewards reinforced with vigorous praise.

Acquiring Social Skills:
A puppy’s ability to learn is at its greatest during the first three months. If denied ongoing contact with other dogs during this important stage, your Labrador Retriever may not develop the social skills necessary for meeting strange dogs later in life. If you do not have another dog, ask your vet to help you organize weekly “puppy parties” to encourage natural, friendly interaction with other healthy puppies.

Toy for Your New Puppy:
Suitable toys for chewing and playing good toys are designed to stimulate your puppy both physically and mentally. Dogs are particularly attracted to toys with distinctive odours, and ones that are fun to chase, capture, retrieve, or chew. Take special care with squeaky toys; curious Labradors are prone to accidentally swallowing the “squeakers”.

Toys as Reward and Comfort:
While toys left lying around soon become boring, items brought out only under special circumstances are transformed into exciting rewards. Give toys selectively as a prize for good behavior, and put them away after use so your dog understands that they belong to you. Whenever you leave your Labrador alone, provide a favorite toy as soothing distraction.

House Training Indoors and Out:
Paper training your puppy will usually want to eliminate after walking, eating, drinking, after exercise. It may signal this by putting its nose down and sniffing with newspaper, and praise it when it urinates or messes. It is pointless to punish your puppy after an accident. If you catch it in the act, however, say “No” in a stern tone to teach it that is must use the paper.

Moving outside:
Start outdoor training as soon as possible. Three – month – old Labrador puppies need to empty their bladders about every three hours. Take a small piece of solid paper with you; the puppy will smell its own scent, and be encouraged to transfer toileting outside. As it eliminates, say “hurry up”; this will train your dog to relieve itself on the command.