Dog Breeds - Japanese Chin

Breed Group:    Toy
Weight:    4-7 lbs
Height:    8-11 inches
Color(s):    black and white, red and white, or black and tan and white

Japanese Chin Breed Information:
Japanese Chin is a dog of Japanese Royalty and in the past could only be owned by the Japanese Imperial family members. They became immensely popular in 1853 when a pair of Japanese Chin, then known as Japanese Spaniel, was gifted to Queen Victoria. In 1964 they became the national symbol of Japan and in 1977 their name was changed from Japanese Spaniel to Japanese Chin by AKC. Japanese Chin is very rare in the United States but in Japan they remain precious. Japanese Chins are a delicate breed with a square body and have fine bones. They appear to be Oriental with an inquisitive expression. They were bred in order to be pampered and loved and it is continued even today. It is a very brainy, affectionate, pleasing, decent, courageous, devoted and a joyful breed who can easily imitate the moods of people around them. They are apt for homes with older children because of their soft and sensitive nature and easily get along with other pets and dogs. They are excellent as guard dogs even though they do not bark in excess. Along with being attention seekers, they have an extraordinarily mind and will never forget a companion or an enemy, and has fixed likes and dislikes.  Japanese Chin is unmatched to keep as a family pet.

Grooming of this dog is difficult as it needs to be combed and brushed every day in order to ensure a tangle free coat. Moreover, the combing and brushing has to be done is a certain manner and thus a lesson from a professional dog groomer has to be taken. Moreover, their ears and eyes need to be cleaned and checked everyday. They have a dense, straight and soft coat with fur being denser around the neck and chest. As compare to other toy breeds, Japanese Chin is more respectful and love to please their owners because of which the training is a very easy task. This breed learns and performs tricks very easily. Japanese Chins are sensitive because of which soft, affectionate, just and continuous methods of training must be adopted. Harsh training methods should never be adopted. They need a little amount of exercise and adore short walks or play routine on a daily basis. They are apt for apartment living but will be at an advantage if given the chance to play in a small fenced ground. However, it must be kept in mind that Japanese Chins are very sensitive to temperature extremes.

Japanese Chin Health and Diseases:
Average life span of Japanese Chin is 10 to 12 years and the dog diseases associated with this breed include:

• Respiratory diseases
• Heart problems
• Heat prostration
• Luxating patellas
• Hypoglycemia

Dog Breeds - Jack Russell Terrier

Breed :      Terrier
Weight:     13-17 lbs
Height:      12-14 inches
Color(s):    predominantly white with tan, black, or brown markings

Jack Russell Terrier Breed Information:
Jack Russell Terrier, also known as Parson Jack Russell Terrier, emerged in England during the 19th century. The name of this breed is on Reverend John Russell who was a hunting enthusiast and the first person to breed these dogs for hunting of foxes. It is an expert of digging and burrowing in foxholes and dens. This breed is tough, strong, and energetic, is outgoing and has a keen expression. This breed of dogs has high vocals but never yaps and is brave despite their small height. Jack Russell Terrier is an affectionate and loyal dog. They are entertaining, active and robust and do well with older children. They are not recommended as pets for children below the age of eight and also do not get along with other pets. They love hunting and this have a fierce nature. They are very brainy and courageous because of which they may often get into dangerous situations which may prove to be fatal. They even seek a lot of human attention.

The Jack Russell Terriers are easy to maintain. They need to be brushed and their nails need to be trimmed on a regular basis. However, they need to be bathed only when required. They have a thick double-coat which may be smooth, rough, and broken and they shed continuously. This breed may prove to be hard, firm, and stubborn and thus need strict and continuous counseling as they can easily be sidetracked. Early socialization and Obedience training is a must. Jack Russell Terrier is extraordinary hunters and trackers.  They live exercising and are very lively both indoors and out. They are most suited for a house with average size yard that is secure and fenced but may also survive in apartments provided they are given daily exercise. If they are bored then they can cause extensive damage.

Jack Russell Terrier Health and Diseases:
They are a very healthy breed and live on an average for about 13 to 16 years. They have the tendency to gain weight if over fed. However, they are affected by a few dog diseases such as:

• Glaucoma
• Epilepsy
• Allergies
• Skin problems
• Eye problems
• Congenital deafness
• Myastenia Gravis
• Legg-Calves-Pethes syndrome
• Von Willebrand disease
• Anemia
• Kidney failure
• Patellar luxation

Dog Breeds - Italian Spinone

Breed :       Sporting
Weight:      Male: 75-86; Female: 64-75 lbs
Height:       Male: 23.5-27.5; Female: 22.5-25.5 inches
Color(s):    Orange Roan, Orange Roan with orange patches, White, White with Orange, Brown Roan, Brown Roan with brown patches, White with Brown.

Italian Spinone Breed Information:
The Italian Spinone breed as the name suggest has originated in Italy, and is an ancient breed of Pointer and Retriever dating back to 500 B.C. It was made for use as a versatile gun dog and was and still is prized because of their hunting capabilities and is thus used for hunting, pointing and retrieving game. However, it can also prove to be a good companion or helper. In general The Spinone is a devoted, amiable and cautious dog.

This breed of dog has gentle conduct and an eloquent stature, with great muscles and stamina and is suitable for hunting in any type of weather and terrain. They are an adaptable breed suitable for being a perfect companion, as well as a hunter. Its appearance is grumpy because of which its loving and soft nature is mistaken.

They are very social, brave and devoted and have an independent nature but can be sensitive. Italian Spinone is apt for homes with mature children and does well with other animals, especially dogs.  This is a rare breed and is not recommended for everyone. They are easy to maintain as they need a bath only when necessary and brushing has to be done on a weekly basis. However, it needs a small amount of stripping to keep the coat clean and orderly. The coat of Italian Spinone is dense, wavy and wiry; hair being longer on the eyebrows, chin and lips. They are a good learner but can prove to be a challenge because of their stubborn nature. They need to be trained firmly, justly and continuously at an early age in order to achieve best results. It is a slow worker and not recommended for apartment life. It does best in a secured yard with fencing.

Italian Spinone Health and Disease:
The life expectancy of Italian Spinone is on an average 10 to 12 years but it may also survive more than 12 years. Even though it is a healthy bred, it may suffer from a few dog diseases which include Cerebellar ataxia and Hip dysplasia.

Dog Aging

Even though dogs are much more quickly than people, they experience many of the same changes with the passing years. They move a little more slowly than they used to. And they’re a little more susceptible to certain conditions, such as arthritis, kidney disease and hear disease.

Your dog might experience some behavioral problems; too, similar to those caused by senility in people, explains Gary Landsberg, D.V.M., an animal behaviorist in private practice in Thornhill, Ontario, and co-editor of Dog Behavior and Training. You might notice that your older dog becomes less attentive or playful, for example, or that she’s forgotten commands that she used to know by heart. Her quick responses to sights and sounds may not be all they once were, and she may even surprise you with puddles inside the house as she loses her good toilet habits.

But with you and your vet around to see that she’s comfortable and to take care of special needs, she’ll be more than happy to kick back and relax and share the years of companionship still to come with you.

Caring for Your Senior Dog:
It can sometimes be difficult to tell whether changes you notice in your pet are due to a medical problem, a behavioral problem or a combination of the two. But while you can’t turn back the clock, there is a lot you can do to help your dog enjoy her senior years.

Anticipate some changes:
It’s not unusual for other dogs to become less responsive or to forget their training. So don’t assume your dog is deliberately ignoring you when she doesn’t respond to your call or she just stands there when you tell her “Sit.” Those surprise puddles in the house could be because she’s lost muscle tone, has an infection or other medical problem. Or maybe she just forgot she had to go outside. Extra toilet training isn’t going to help here. Stay calm, clean up the mess, and think about visiting your vet real soon.

Keeping in contact with your vet. Most dogs will have a veterinary checkup once a year, but now that she’s getting up in years, you might want to make your visits little more frequent, especially if you notice something different that you’re concerned about. Report any unusual changes to your vet right away, recommends Dr. Landsberg. That includes behavioral as well as physical changes. “One study showed that fewer than 10 percent of pet owners advised their veterinarians of behavior problems in their older dog, yet more than 60 percent of dogs were exhibiting problems when the same owners were asked to fill out a questionnaire,” says Dr. Landsberg. It’s important that you don’t take changes in your dog for granted or dismiss them with, “Oh well, it’s just old age.” There may be things that can be done to help her.

Your vet will give your dog a complete physical examination and run tests to check for any disorders common in elderly dogs. If there is a medical cause for the problem, he will treat her for this. If the problem turns out to be partly or purely behavioral, don’t give up hope. There are new drugs that can help to slow some of these changes or even lead to an improvement in her behavior. Drugs such as L-deprenyl (Anipryl) or nicergoline, combined with a retraining program. Can often help improve the quality of life for many dogs and their owners, explains Dr. Landsberg. Your vet will also advise you on what you can do to help your dog at home.

Be sympathetic to aging sense. Your dog may lose some of her sharpness of her senses. Her eyesight may fade, she may not her as well as she once did, and even her sense of smell may be somewhat impaired. Your dog will accommodate and adjust to this gradual process, so much so that you may not even notice at first. But do try always to be considerate of your older pet and her set routines.

Any sudden changes could be stressful or downright confusing, so they’re nest avoided. If you have to move the furniture or do a major remodeling and your dog’s eyesight isn’t what it used to be, take her on a tour of the new layout rather than spring it as a surprise.

When she’s sleeping peacefully, don’t startle her with hand contact, even if you think she must have heard your approach. Announce your presence by kneeling close to her and gently calling her name perhaps clapping your hand softly as you walk up to where she is resting.

Keeping her walking. Your dog will benefit from regular exercise and enjoy it as much as she always has, although the pace will probably be slower. After all, while she might be old in years, you want to keep her feeling young in spirit and exercise is a great way to keep her alert and interested in what’s going on around her.

If she doesn’t have the old stamina, just change her schedule to include more outings of shorter distances. This will also provide her with extra opportunities to go to the toiler, and dog that has lost some of her toilet training will appreciate this. And if she gets sore after exercising, a nice massage or a warm bath will do wonders for aging joint. Exercise will keep your dog’s joint mobile and supple, her heart pumping and her body in shape so she doesn’t start piling on the pounds. There is nothing like a walk followed by some gentle games to sustain your dog’s joy in life.

Feed her right. A healthful, balanced diet will work wonders for your older dog. But be careful not to overfeed her, especially since she may not be as active as she once was. It’s important that you watch she doesn’t become too weighty, as this can lead to a number of health problems.

There’s no need to switch her to a special diet, however, unless your vet specifically says to do so. While some dogs benefit from low protein, high-fiber diets, others do much better eating food with high – quality protein, low fiber and lots of water soluble vitamins. In some cases, vets may switch more mature dogs to highly digestible puppy foods.

Most elderly dogs will benefit from supplements rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C and vitamin E, which help combat some of the deterioration that aging can bring. An older dog also needs more B vitamins to help kidneys work more efficiently.

Your dog will have her own individual health needs, so if you pay close attention to her and how she’s getting along and plan her activities and meals with this in mind, she will enjoy a long, happy and healthy retirement.

Dog Breeds - Italian Greyhound

Breed :    Toy
Weight:    7-14 lbs
Height:    13-15 inches
Color(s):    any color but brindle or black and tan

Italian Greyhound Breed Information:
The Italian Greyhound, also called I.G. or Iggy, is a small breed of dog of the sight hound type and was developed by the Romans. It was a favorite breed among Catherine, the great of Russia. It is a friendly breed and thus a wonderful companion. It can cause great damage but is very humble and shy. If treated in a tough manner then it can become sober and thus soft handling is a must. The Italian Greyhound is a dependent breed and will do well if kept as a friend. They are very sensitive and need repeated assurances that they haven’t been a bad boy. It is also commonly used as agility trials because of its lively and fast nature. Italian Greyhounds is a fearful breed and thus small children that trouble him are sure to make him more timid, also it gets easily scared by large dominant dogs. As a result it does well with a family having mature children and may also get along well in the house having a number of Italian Greyhounds.

Grooming of Italian Greyhounds is very simple because of the fact that it does not shed much hair and simply wiping with a soft towel can be done to keep it in good health. However, the teeth must be brushed regularly to avoid gum problems and nails should be clipped every other week. On the other hand it’s a challenge to train the Italian Greyhound because of their sensitive and hyperactive nature. Often professional training is necessary for this task. The breed must be given regular instructions regarding obedience because they have a nature to become timid if treated harshly. It is a very lively breed and thus requires strenuous exercise on everyday basis. He loves jogging and running and long walks. Therefore, they do well in a house which has at least a small yard to give them leisure space. It must always be kept tied within a fenced area because otherwise it may run away because of its love for exercise.


Italian Greyhound Health and Diseases:
Health diseases normally associated with Italian Greyhound include:

• Hip degeneration
• Epilepsy
• Patellar Luxation
• Bleeding disorders
• Progressiev retinal atrophy
• Leg breaks
• Cataracts
• Vitreous degeneration
• Liver shunts
• Anemia
• Thyroid problems.

The life expectancy of Italian Greyhounds is 12-15 years.

Dog Breeds - Irish Wolfhound

Breed :    Hounds
Weight:    Male: 120; Female: 105 lbs
Height:    Male: 32; Female: 30 inches
Color(s):    gray, brindle, red, black, white, or fawn

Irish Wolfhound Breed Information:
The Irish Wolfhound, even tempered, tolerant and brainy, is a breed of domestic purpose used for wolf hunting (as the name suggests). Irish Wolfhounds are the tallest of dog breeds and hence should never be left unattended with a child. People are usually afraid of Irish Wolfhound due to its size but it in reality is a very loving and mellow breed who normally welcomes friend and foe alike, i.e in a very friendly manner. And hence this is deemed unsuitable for guarding purposes. The Irish Wolfhound is not a very intelligent breed but has fondness for learning and is thus easy to train. This breed makes a friendly companion because of its loving, well behaved and adorable nature and is also devoted and dignified. He at once becomes friendly with his family and will become friendly with other animals if they are properly groomed. The Irish Wolfhound do not shed much hair, however, brushing and combing is an absolute necessity along with the cleaning of beard. Moreover, professional plucking of the coat may need to be done in order to remove dead hair. It is a sighthound and hence has the habit to chase because of which it should never be left untied in an open area. Because the breed loves to run about, it should be placed in a large ground with fences on all sights. Moreover, the dog enjoys long walks with his family.

Irish Wolfhound Health and Diseases:
Irish Wolfhounds have a short lifespan of about 6 to 8 years, just like other large dog breeds. The diseases affiliated with Irish Wolfhound include:
•    Dilated cardiomyopathy
•    Bone Cancer
•    Gastric torsion
•    Intrahepatic portosystemic shunt

Dog Breeds - Irish Water Spaniel

Breed :      Sporting
Weight:      Male: 55-65; Female: 45-58 lbs
Height:       Male: 22-24; Female: 21-23 inches
Color(s):    Solid liver

Irish Water spaniel breed information:
The Irish Water Spaniel, having originated in Ireland in the mid 1800s, is the largest and oldest dog of the Spaniels. They were very popular during 1870s but over time they were replaced by Labrador Retriever. Apart from being the oldest and largest, it is also unfortunately one of the rarest breeds. It is a lively, robust and an ever-ready companion. They are strong, courageous, attentive, and inquisitive and also have a vigorous endurance. Irish Water Spaniels are very clever, confident and dedicated but they seek attention in return. They enjoy interaction with mankind and are best with mature children; however, if groomed properly, they will also get along with other pets. They are on the whole very quiet and bark only when needed. They are protective, aloof and alert in the presence of a stranger but not at all fierce. They show spice and liveliness towards life.

Owing an Irish Water Spaniel may cost you a lot because it needs a lot of grooming, they should be brushed everyday and regular professional trim of coat is a necessity. Their body is covered with ringlets of hair which is crisp in texture and brown in color. However, tail, face and ends of rear legs have smooth short hair as compared to ringlets. However, one advantage of this breed is that it does not shed any hair. Irish Water Spaniel is a fast learner if tough, just and consistent training is adopted. However, at other times they may prove to be very obstinate. This breed need an ample amount of daily exercises and enjoy swimming, hunting, walks etc. They have a love for open space and thus are best suited for the country or suburbs as compared to apartments.

Irish Water Spaniel Health and Diseases:
Irish Water Spaniel is at a risk of elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia, thyroid problems, and eye problems. They may live for a period of 10 to 12 years.

House Training Adult Dogs

If you welcome an adult dog into your home and she isn’t house trained properly, forget paper training and go straight to the outdoors. Train her the same way you would a puppy – by routine and prevention. The only difference between an untrained adult dog and a puppy is that an adult dog can hold her bladder for much longer.

Take your adult dog to the same spot outdoors morning, night and after meals and wait with her while she does her business. When she’s indoors, keep your eye on her as much as possible. If you catch her sniffing about or just about to go, make a loud, distracting noise and take her outside. When you can’t watch her, confine her to a small space, such as a crate, the laundry or bathroom.

New Home, Old Smells:
If you bring a new adult dog to your home and you owned a dog before her, you might not be aware that your first dog before, you might not be aware that your first dog leaked some urine on the carpet here and there, which soaked through to he padding underneath.

Despite your best house-training efforts, your new dog will be attached to the odor only she can detect, and will think its okay to use the living room rug as her bathroom. Inexpensive UV lights available at hardware stores can reveal urine spots you can’t see but your dog can smell – under the lights they will glow bright green. To convince her that the carpet is off limits, keep her out of that room and call in a professional carpet – cleaning company to steam clean the carpet and replace the padding underneath.

Moving Confusion:
A move to another house can sometimes confuse your adult dog. She hasn’t established her scent there yet and may want to mark her territory by urinating in the entire wrong place. If this becomes a persistent problem, put her food dish next to her favorite new spots. Dogs don’t like to soil the places where they eat and sleep.

Occasional Mistakes:
Sometimes a dog you’ve owned for years may suddenly have an accident in the house. Perhaps she was too distracted or excited when she was outside to concentrate on going to the bathroom. Maybe she wanted to get back in for her dinner or to greet a special visitor. Unless the act is repeated, consider it an isolated incident. If it continues, retrain her as you did when she was a puppy.

If a visitors bring an adult dog over to play with your dog, this might trigger a urinating contest in the house and your dog may be prompted to return to those spots long after her playmate goes home. If possible, let the games stay outdoors. Don’t let the visiting dog inside the house unless you can watch both dogs constantly, or they are crated.

Getting Older:
Your senior dog is starting to leave puddles around the house. She’s normally so fastidious, but now that she’s getting on in years she’s becoming a little incontinent and can’t always wait to get outside to use the restroom

The best thing you can do is to quietly mop up the mess and visit the vet for a checkup. If she could help it, she wouldn’t be doing it, so this is not the time to reprimand her.

“There are several medical problems that might cause this,” says Karen Martin, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in thousand Oaks, California. These include diabetes, gallstones, urinary tract infection and, more commonly, memory loss. “It’s wise to have the dog evaluated by a veterinarian and be in a position to make choices regarding treatments or changes in diet that can help.”

Travelling and the Dog

Just like the rest of the family, your dog needs somewhere to rest his head at the end of the day. With a little research before you leave, you’ll find just the place – a campsite, a hotel or, if he can’t be with you, a boarding kennel, for a happy stay.

Under Canvas:
Canines love camping out, but not all campsites love dogs. National forests allow dogs at campsites, but some national parks and state parks do not. If you plan to visit one, call ahead to check if dogs are allowed. Dogs should always be kept tethered in a campsite for the comfort of others, the preservation of wildlife and your dog’s safety.

Dog - Friendly Hotels:
If your dog’s the Jacuzzi and spa type, you may well opt for one of the many hotels around the country that put out the welcome mat for pets. Check hotels in the area you’re visiting before you leave home, and book in advance. Don’t just drive somewhere and hope to find a hotel that takes dogs. You may end up sleeping in the car.

Tracking Down Dog-Doting Digs:
“There are many available guidebooks on where to stay with your pet,” says Maria Goodavage, author of California Dog lovers’ Companion and the bay area dog lovers’ companion. “If you are an automobile association of America member, you can use the organization’s free guides. You can also call the local humane society in the area where you will be staying and ask for a reference to a good dogs - allowed hotel.” Many bed -and - breakfast hotels are also happy to have dogs.

“Start by picking a place that sounds good to you, then do a little research,” says Goodavage. Call and talk to the owners to get a sense of how welcome your dog will be. “If dog treats are provided or other special canine services, chances are your dog will be very welcome.”

The well-behaved Guest:
He’s on holiday, but his good manners shouldn’t be – it’s up to you to make sure he’s showing his best behavior. “Dogs make incredible guests if their owners know how to handle them,” says Goodavage. This means taking some precautions to ensure that your dog does not disturb other guests or ruin the room.

“Whatever you do, don’t leave your dog alone in a hotel room,” says Goodavage. “An anxious dog can tear a hotel room apart in no time.” If you must leave your dog alone for a short time keep him confined to his crate. Be sure to inform the hotel manager so cleaning staff don’t get a nasty surprise when they enter the room.

If your dog tends to bark at strange noises, ask for a room where there’s little foot traffic, says Goodavage. She also recommends brining a sheet from home to put on the bed if your dog likes to cuddle up with you at night. No one wants him leaving his hair on the bedclothes.

If your dog isn’t housebroken, he’s isn’t hotel – broken. If you have any doubts about his toilet habits, go camping instead.

Boarding Kennels:
It’s not always possible, or sensible, to take your dog with you, especially if you’re flying. He shouldn’t be left at home either, unless you can get a friend or family member to move into your house to dog sit while you’re gone. If that’s not possible, a boarding kennel may be at the best choice.

There are about 6500 boarding kennels to choose from the in the United States and Canada. This is going to be your dog’s temporary home in your absence, so don’t just drop your dog off at the first one you drive past on your way out of town. Reassure yourself that the kennel you choose will be providing him with the kind of care that he’s used to from you.

Choosing the Right Kennel:
Ask dog – owning friends for recommendations or check the yellow pages, says Jim Krack, executive director of the American Boarding Kennels Association. Then call your local better Business Bureau and ask if any complaints have been lodged against the kennel you’ve decided on. Telephone the kennel to make sure it can take your pet while you will be away. “Also make an appointment to visit, to see it for yourself,” advises Krack. “A personal visit is essential to determine whether it will be satisfactory.”

When you arrive at the kennel, take a good look around. Is it neat and clean? Are enclosures high enough so a dog can’t climb out? Are they made from sturdy, well maintained materials? Are there solid dividers between them so neighboring dogs can’t make contact with your pet?

Quality Care:
It’s also important to determine what level of care and supervision your pet will receive. “Proper supervision is the key to good boarding,” says Krack. “Pets should be checked frequently during the day by someone who is trained to recognize signs of illness and distress.” Some experts recommend using only kennels that provide such supervision around the clock.

Find out how water is provided. “Individual containers full of clean drinking water should be available to each animal,” says Krack. Ask, too, if you can bring a supply of your dog’s regular food. If his diet doesn’t have to be changed, he shouldn’t develop diarrhea while you are gone.

Finally, be sure that the kennel requires all dogs to be immunized against distemper, parvovirus, rabies and tracheobronchitis, and that veterinary services are available should they be needed.

Dog Home Alone

Wouldn’t it be wonderful if you could spend all day, every day, with your dog, playing ball together, going for long walks and napping in the noonday sun? Unfortunately, few of us are lucky enough to live such a life of leisure. After all, somebody’s got to go out and earn enough to put food in the bowl, blankets in the basket, and chew toys under the Christmas tree.

Dogs are very social creatures and they crave companionship and stimulation. While you’re at work, your dog will be stuck at home, trying to find ways to while away the hours until your return. Each dog handles this separation differently, says Larry Lachman, an animal behaviorist in Laguna Hills, California.
Some dogs cope quite easily, while others have trouble dealing with the fact that they are often left alone. The good news is that there is much you can do to help your dog deal with the temporary separation.

Keeping her Entertained:
Being alone from time to time is something most people look forward to – it gives us a chance to catch up on some of the things we want to do. We can amuse ourselves with a good book, a favorite TV show, or even indulge in a hobby such as painting, model building or sewing.

Obviously, dogs don’t have hobbies. And they don’t like being alone, either. “Dogs are pack animals, and when they are isolated, they feel lonely, bored, stressed, anxious and frustrated,” says Robin Kovary, a professional dog trainer and behavioral consultant New York City, and president of the American Dog Trainers network. That’s just the nature of dogs, she explains. It’s this deep attachment to her family that makes your dog such a wonderful pet.

Unfortunately, this same attachment can be hard on your dog when her family is not around. So how can you help her to feel okay when she has to be left on her own?

Care when you’re there. Pay lots of attention to her when you are home, says Lachman. A few hours a week of occasional interaction just isn’t enough for a dog that stays home by herself. “When dogs spend a lot of time alone, they also need to spend a lot of time with their owners, getting both exercise and attention,” he says.

Get her moving. Liz Palika, a dog trainer in Oceanside, California, and author of All Dogs Need Some Training, recommends a regular exercise schedule for dogs left alone during the day. “I suggest to my training students that their dogs by given two good aerobic workouts each and every day, one in the morning and one in the evening,” she says.

Keep her busy. Another way to help your dog cope is to give her something to do. Kovary suggest providing her with toys that can be filled with kibble, cheese or other foods. She will be occupied for hours working on one of these toys as she tries to get the food out.

Consider the Breed:
Every dog has her own unique temperament and personality, but your dog’s breed plays a large part in the way she looks at the world. Some breeds are generally more capable of being alone all day because of the temperament they have inherited as part of their breed characteristics, says Lachman. Dogs that were bred to work alone, for example, terriers and hounds, cope better with isolation because they are more independent and less reliant on their owners’ attentions. Breeds such as German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers were meant to work closely with humans, and are not good candidates for keeping themselves company. You’ll need to consider your dog’s personality before you decide how well she can handle being left alone.

Higher Education, Advanced training for your Dog

When you start training your dog, the two of you build up a special bond. You work hard together so of course you can’t help but feel pleased when she responds to your instructions. By the time your dog can obey the basic commands without a training collar and leash, you may not want not stop training – you’ll  be so excited by all that she is capable of and will look forward to doing more advanced work with her. And like a snowball picking up speed as it rolls downhill, the more you teach your dog, the faster she’ll learn.

Because you’ve used positive reinforcement throughout your training, your dog will also be eager to keep going – she enjoys the challenges and rewards. Just from her expression, you can see how self – assured she is when you give her a command she knows and can execute. Her ears are alert, her eyes are bright and she holds her head up proudly. Who wouldn’t want to keep the training ball rolling?

Canine Capers:
Is there life after “Sit” and “Stay?” Definitely. In fact, there’s another world of training skills that dogs can learn. Although there may be limitations, depending on her breed, your dog can be trained, depending on her breed, your dog can be trained to do all kinds of things – retrieve an object without damaging it, pose with small children for a photo in a crowded auditorium, jump over hurdles, her sheep, shoot through tunnels and chase small game. Once you get past the fundamentals there’s a whole range of skills your dog is capable of learning. And with plenty of dogs working alongside their owners and helping out in the community, there are lots of opportunities for well – trained dogs to perform beyond their backyards.

“Well – trained dogs can save lives on land or in water, or help the physically disabled by opening and closing doors, getting the mail and picking up dropped objects,” says Bob Jervis, an animal trainer and director of training at the national K-9 Dog training school in Columbus, Ohio. “Others act as the eyes or ears of their human companions. They alert their hard – of – hearing owners by parking loudly when the doorbell or the phone rings, and guide those with poor sight safely through busy traffic.”

Famous Dogs and Their Tricks:
Over the years, a number of highly trained dogs have graced our film and TV screens and wowed us with their presence. One of the most joyous canine actors in the 1950s was a rough – haired Collie who played the part of Lassie. Whenever Lassie’s young owner got himself into trouble, he would ask Lassie to “go for help.” Lassie would immediately know this was the cue to run and find someone who could help, and get the person’s attention by barking furiously. Lassie would persuade that person to follow her and return to the spot where the youngster was in trouble.

But dog actors are not confined to just one particular breed. A 150 – pound French Mastiff named Hooch played a detective in the movie turner and hooch, while a team of Saint Bernard’s shared the limelight in the movie Beethoven. One of the lead canine actors in Beethoven was trained to dig on command and pull over a picnic table.

A jack Russell terrier called Moose plays the character Eddie in the television sitcom, Frasier. Moose jumps up and down on command and stares intently at the lead actor. Behind the scenes, the Terrier is really jumping up and down on a trampoline. In the movie, Zeus and Roxanne, a Portuguese Podengo was taught to ride on the back of a dolphin, and in the television show empty nest, the saint Bernard/golden retriever mix was trained to raise and lower his eyebrows on command. In TV’s popular Mad about you, a smart and well – trained mixed breed dog command a high fee for playing dumb.

But the live – action remake of Walk Disney’s 101 Dalmatians take the cake for being the most ambitious movie made with dogs to date. More than 300 Dalmatian puppies and several adult dogs appeared in the film. Small groups of six – week – old puppies were taught to run on command, sit and stay together in a group and dive into a haystack. An adult Dalmatian was trained to jump up on a kitchen sink, start the coffee maker, turn off the alarm clock and wake up his owner. A Standard Schnauzer was trained to jump up on his hind legs, and toss a burlap bag over his own head while hopping across the room. Not only are these performances amazing but so, too, are the trainers for having the enormous amount of patience required to achieve all of this.

Handling your Dog Right

Your dog likes to be petted, but touch his feet to clip his toenails and he immediately slips and wiggles away. He may also be fussy about having his rear examined or his teeth examined or his teeth inspected. It will be difficult to keep a dog who hates being handled well-groomed or have him examined by a vet.

When puppies are not handled much from birth, tactile sensations are new and strange to them. They’re unsure what will happen, so they flip their heads from side to side to see what’s going on with your hand. Sometimes female dogs are uncomfortable about their rears being touched, especially if they’re in season or soon will be. Young male dogs going through puberty can also be touchy about that area of their anatomy. Other dogs might have had a lot of early stroking but are very strong willed and want to control their own bodies. “It can be a dominance problem,” says Peter L. Borchelt, Ph. D., an animal behaviorist in private practice in Brooklyn, New York.

Feel It, Don’t Fight It:
Trying to get a grip on a dog who is struggling to free himself is not easy. Besides scratching you, might also try to bite your hands. If this happens, tell him sternly, “No bite!” Continue holding him and praise him when he stops.

Accustom your puppy to your touch by giving him gentle massages from the moment you bring him home. Talk softly to him as you soothingly stoke all over his body. Apply very little pressure at first. When your dog begins to enjoy it, he’ll respond by leaning his body into your fingertips.

With an older dog, put his collar and leash on. While holding the leash, talk softly to him as you pet him where he feels comfortable. Confidently move your hand to other areas of his body, while telling him what a good dog he is. If he doesn’t like his paws to be handled, offer him a treat while softly touching one of them.

When he allows you to do this, say, “Good dog.” If he still resists, tell him in a low, strong voice to “Quit it” and give him a little leash correction. Touch the remaining paws one at a time. Repeat this process until you can life each foot slightly and are able to rub his toes very gently without him protesting. Practice this several times a day.

Try making a game out of giving him rough pats and tickles after running your hands over his back and tail. Be sure to laugh so he knows it’s supposed to be fun. The goal is to make him feel secure enough to accept your authority.

Getting your Message Across to your Dog

Dogs learn all about the meanings of sounds and body language when they’re puppies by looking at their mom and litter mates. So, your dog is going to get to know you by watching the way you move, by checking out your expressions and listening to the tone of your voice.

Body Language and Eye Contact:
Your dog is naturally good at reading body language. Just test this by smiling, backing up a few steps and spreading your arms the next time you call her to come, and see how much faster she gets the message.

While most dogs are able to understand our body language, too much exuberance around pets can send them confusing or scary signals. “Don’t talk baby talk to your dog or swoop down on her to pick her up or pet her,” says Loomis. To the canine mind, swooping down from above is an extremely dominant gesture. If your dog looks a little leery when you bend over her, knee down to her level and rub her chest rather than reach over her head to pet her.

The same goes for eye contact. Some dogs don’t mind being looked straight in the eye, while others do. If it unnerves your dog, you’ll know because she’ll look away, way her tail low and try to appear smaller.

Make eye contact with her briefly, and give her a gently smile. Chances are she’ll soon get used to human signals by watching interact with family and friends. Then she won’t care how you pet her as long as she gets attention, and she’ll cheerfully return your admiring gaze.

Meeting Strange Dogs:
Swooping down on a dog, bending over her, and making unwelcome eye contact should especially be avoided when meeting a strange dog, cautious Loomis. Improperly socialized dogs may take it as a threat or a challenge and answer with their teeth. If you want to make friends with a strange dog, make yourself inviting and nonthreatening by kneeling down at an angle to the dog and looking to the side of her, not directly into her eyes. Wait for her to come to you, then tickle under her chin or gently scratch her chest instead of raising your hand over her head.

Getting Enough Water for your Dog

Dogs just love water. And while they need all the essential nutrients to survive, they need water most of all. Fresh, clean water. Dogs can go for amazing length of time without food, but without water they’d perish in a few days.

Make sure she has fresh water, says Kathy Michel, D.V.M., a clinical assistant professor of nutrition at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine in Philadelphia. “If the water’s not fresh, some dogs will drink only when very thirsty.” Clean the bowl and change the water every morning, then check it during the day. This is especially important in hot weather or if your dog spends time outside. For an expectant or lactating mom, continual access to clean, fresh water is most important. Water carriers’ nutrients to the developing fetuses and also helps flush wastes out of the mother’s system. During lactation, she needs lots to keep up her milk supply for her new family.

Your dog can drink however much she likes, whenever she likes, except around serious exercise time. (Her water bowl should be off-limits for at least 30 minutes before and after exercise.) Generally, you need never to be concerned about giving her “too much” water. Talk to your vet if you notice a marked increase in your dog’s water consumption, though. “Diabetes, kidney failure, Cushing’s disease and other things are all characterized by increased thirst,” says Dr. Michel.

Start Training your Dog

When you take your dog out in public and he walks confidently by your side, it’s confidently by your side, it’s impressive. When he sits and stays on command, strangers will admire him and you will feel proud to be his owner. It’s much easier for you, too, if your dog can take a trip to be groomed, boarded or to receive medical care all in his stride, and he can pass other dogs along the side-walk without causing a commotion. You want a dog you can enjoy, and a confident, well-behaved dog is a lot of fun. On the other hand, a dog that constantly disturbs the peach and nearly knocks you over can be a challenge to live with.

It would be nice if all dogs well-behaved right from the start. But dogs need to learn what you want them to do and not do. They need to be trained, and that’s your job.

The rules for good canine manners are simple. Dogs should be quiet and not bark or howl at the neighbors. They should wait patiently, instead of jumping all over guests who come to visit. Respecting your possessions by not chewing them up is a good thing, too. A well behaved dog will stay put when asked and come to you call his name. If the front door swings opens, he will watch the world go by, instead of running to catch it. At the dinner table, he will know to lie low instead of begging for leftovers.

Training is easy and rewarding – no fancy tricks or superdog intelligence are required. Just make a point to work with your dog on a regular basis, and don’t give up until he does exactly what you want him to do.

When to Start:
It’s good to teach your new dog the rules of your new dog the rules of your house before he starts as soon as his paws first paddle through your door. If you bring home an adult dog, he may already know the basic commands of sit and stay. But he is not a mind reader and you will need to tell him when you expect him to do these things. This is what you can teach him as soon as he joins the household. If you want, you can also train your dog to obey more advanced commands, such as to retrieve, sit up, and walk through an obstacle course.

Most puppies go to their new homes at between seven and eight weeks of age and they, too, should be trained right away. Why wait until they are older, when you can prevent a bad habit from forming? While you can’t expect a puppy a learn the advanced stuff right away, you can begin to lay the foundations.

How often should you train?
Be consistent and spend some time training your dog every day, even if you have only a few minutes. Some people think that a dog will get tired and bored if you train him every day. That won’t happen if you make training sessions short and fun, and give him plenty of praise and rewards when he performs correctly.
A daily training routine builds good learning habits and gives him a chance to practice and perfect what he’s learned earlier. As well as specific training sessions, find opportunities throughout the day to incorporate what he’s learned. For example, once he understands “Sit,” make him sit before you feed him or put his leash on when you take him for a walk.

By reinforcing the training in this way, his new behavior will soon become a habit. Your dog will be eager for opportunities to practice what he’s learned because he wants to show off what you taught him the day before and get his treat.

How Long Should a Session Last?
Keep your training sessions short and sweet. Sessions that last between 10 and 20 minutes will work better than drilling out commands that go on and on. For a puppy, the training times should be shorter, say sessions of 3 to 5 minutes spaced throughout the day, with at least a half hour break in between.

“The more often you can do it for shorter period of time, the better the results,” says Dan Estep, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist in Littleton, Colorado. “Three hours one day a week doesn’t work as well because your dog gets tired and bored after just 30 minutes.”

Shorter but more frequent training sessions will also fit in better with your schedule. If you suddenly find you have a spare ten minutes, you can use this time to work in an extra training sessions with your dog.

Because different dogs learn at different speeds, one session might be all you need to teach your dog one command. You can use other sessions that day to review what your dog has already learned, then go on to something new. Since there are five basic commands for your dog to learn, you won’t run out of activities. Or it may be that he needs the same lesson repeated three or four times a day the same lesson repeated three or four times a day until he gets the idea. Just remember to stay flexible and remain upbeat. You want your dog to enjoy his training times, not to dread them.

Where to Train:
Just as you wouldn’t be able to concentrate in noisy room if you were trying to understand a math lesson, your dog won’t be able to learn under distracting circumstances, either. When teaching commands such as “Sit” and down,” start your instruction in a quiet environment. Choose an area of the house where no other family members will be wandering in and out and a time when you won’t be interrupted.
When you start teaching him to walk on a leash, you will need more space, so move to an outside area that has few distractions, such as your backyard or a quiet street or park.

“In the beginning, try and make things as easy as possible, then gradually add new and busier surroundings,” says Dr. Estep. Once your dog obeys your

commands in the house, take him to new and interesting areas, such as your garage or a neighbor’s house, to work with him.

“These diversions are a good test,” says Dr. Estep. But don’t be surprised if at first he acts as if he’s forgotten everything. It may take a few tries before he can ignore what is going on around him, but he will. And once he follows your commands, put him through his paces in even more challenging places, such as a shopping center, schoolyard or on a crowded sidewalk.

Who Should Train?
When you ride in a car, only one person at a time can sit behind the wheel. The same is true when training a dog. The person who will be spending the most time with the dog, and therefore needs to be in control of him the most, should be given the primary responsibility for training him, recommends Dr. Estep. That person can then show other members of the family what the dog is learning and how they can get him to respond to their commands.

If he’s spending equal time with everyone, the whole family can be involved in the training process, but only one member at a time will be able to “steer” his leash. Children can take part in the training process, but they should be supervised by an adult at all times. A well-trained dog will know that the member of his family who is handling him at the time is the leader.

Fitness for your Dog

You want to create an exercise program for your dog that is safe. So start off slowly, be consistent and patient and you can gradually increase the level of activity when she shows that she’s ready for more. Take it real easy if your dog is still a youngster. Puppies aren’t as coordinated as adults. Their muscles aren’t fully developed and their bones are softer, says Dr. Zink. They are also more susceptible to the heat and cold.

“Puppies do need some moderate exercise, but serious fitness training shouldn’t start until after they are 14 months old,” advises Dr. Zink. That’s when the last of the growth plates on their bones close. Increase your young dog’s fitness program gradually, over a period of several months, she suggests. And give an adolescent dog time to develop her coordination and get used to her maturing dog.

Warming Up:
Aerobics, jogging, and gym – if you’ve ever exercised, you’ll know that you should always start with some gentle stretches. Doing a warm-up is the best way to protect you from muscle strains and other pains. And this may come as a surprise, but it’s no different for your dog. Begin all her exercise sessions with a gentle warm up, between five and ten minutes long, advises Dr. Zink. This helps prevent injury by stretching the tendons and ligaments, and getting the blood to the muscles and nerves. Start with several minutes of unhurried walking, then do some stretching exercises, says Dr. Bond.

To keep his award-winning agility dogs limber, Dr. Bond gently warms them up by bending and straightening each of their legs a few times. Next he has them walk slowly around and between his legs in increase their flexibility.

You’ve probably seen your pet play bowing or arching her back, and it’s doing her good. Dr. Bond praises his dogs whenever they do these motions, from the time they are puppies. They relate the words “Stretch, good,” with the actions, and eagerly stretch their spines on cue.

Cardiovascular Training:
With the warm up over, the real action can begin. The best exercise to get the heart, blood and lungs working is walking,” says Dr. Bond. But start off slowly and increase your speed and distance over time. When both of you are walking faster and farther without puffing and panting, you can try trotting and jogging. Mix it up with a short sprint now and again. The change of pace will get her using different parts of the same muscles, says Dr. Bond. And it will also help keep things interesting. Why not make a game of it by calling out “Come on, chase me!” as you take off. Your dog will think its great sport.

Strength Training:
Hills are good for your dog; stairs too. Choose the route with the big hill when you go for a walk. Dash up the stairs at home. It will build up her strength, says Dr. Bond. Have someone hide a treat at the top. Walk her up to the treat the first few times and she’ll soon be eager to race to it on her own. Play tag on the slope rather than on the flat. If your dog likes retrieving, throw a toy or a ball up the hill for her to fetch.

Start doing a variety of these games just a few times and gradually builds up to doing them several times over – but never enough to bore her.

Speed Conditioning:
It’s easy to condition your dog to run at speed, and she’ll have a great time doing it, says Dr. Bond. Send eager fetches after toys, ball or Frisbee thrown on level ground. She will be able to stretch right out and really extend her body and her muscles, with the wind in her fur.

If she doesn’t know about the joys of chasing a ball and you think she’d like it, why not teach her. Make sure she smells the ball first and sees it leave your hand, advises Gee Weaver, foster care coordinator for the Animal Relief Center in Whitefish, Montana. Roll it only a few feet from her at first. If she’s interested, praise her and roll it again. Only do it a few times, never enough to tire or bore her. When she learns to love it, let her attitude be your guide. Always quit while she’s still raring to go, so that it remains a great game, a treat that she always look forward to.

If rolling or bouncing ball isn’t idea of a good time, then get her to run at speed to you by calling her from some distance away. Have someone hold her at one end of the yard while you go to the other end. Face her and call her with open arms. Just be ready to dodge out of the way as she hurtles toward you, and pile on the praise for her when she arrives.

Chasing games, complete with lots of sprints and changes of direction, are another way to get fit with speed. Make sure you’re in good enough shape to play them safely yourself, and don’t let her overdo it.

Cooling down:
A leisurely saunter, followed by a few stretches, is the perfect way to bring another session of fun to an end and give your dog’s body time to slow down again. “Vigorous exercise should never stop suddenly,” says Dr. Zink. “Cooling down is just as important as warming up.”

Non-Weight-Bearing Aerobic Exercise:
Some dogs think water is strictly for drinking, but for those that like to get everything wet, swimming is a great way to get a non-weight-bearing aerobic workout. “This benefits the muscles, heart and lungs without putting stress on the bones and joints,” says Dr. Zink. That means it’s especially good for dogs with hip dysplasia and other joint problems.

Swimming is also the best way to condition your dog during the hot summer months, says Ken Marden, a field trial and hunting test judge, and a breeder of German Shorthaired Pointers in Titusville, New Jersey. A swim will get her using all her muscles. It will increase her heart rate and build up her stamina. And no matter how hot it is, your dog will always keep her cool – there’s no risk of heatstroke when she’s splashing about.

“If you want your dog to love the water, start her when she’s young,” advises Marden. “Carry her out about ten feet from shore, turn and face land, gently place her in the water and praise her all the way as she swims to shore. If you toss her into deep water, you’ll frighten her and she’ll grow up with an aversion to swimming.”

Some dog breeds are natural swimmers and other breeds are not (there are some retrieving breeds, such as Labrador Retrievers and Golden Retrievers, that even have webbed feet.) “It may take a while before your dog learns to use her hind legs as well as her front ones,” says Marden. But you can help her out here. Support your puppy’s rear by placing one hand, palm up, under her tail and between her back legs until she realizes that she makes better progress using four legs rather than two. Above all, make it so much fun that she can’t wait to do it again.

“Once your dog is a super swimmer, be careful that she doesn’t tire herself out,” says Marden. If she’s retrieving from water and she’s getting slower and slower, or if her front feet start splashing when she’s swimming it’s time to quit for the day.

Working Together:
Exercising by herself is no way for your dog to get the workout she wants. “Trying a dog up outside inhibits her from stretching out and achieving a full range of motion and it gives her a nasty jolt each time she reaches the end of the chain at a trot or a gallop,” explains Weaver. If you must tie or chain your dog, Weaver recommends using an overhead trolley cable. It will get rid of some of the problems and give her more room to run.

Unless you live far from the dangers of modern life, it’s simply not safe for dogs to wander on their own. No matter where you live, this is asking for trouble,” says Weaver.

There are all kinds of risks waiting for the unwary dog that roams free, including being hit by a car. It’s important that you always keep her company as she explores, and keep her safely on a leash whenever she’s out.

Dog Feeding Equipment

Your dog doesn’t need a fork and spoon when he has his dinner, but well designed food and water bowls will make his meals more enjoyable, not to mention less messy for you. A good bowl is sturdy, easy to clean, won’t tip over easily, and has plenty of room for his muzzle. Be sure you keep his dishes clean, washing them out or running them through the dish-washer regularly so that encrusted food doesn’t build up and attract bacteria and bugs.

The Best Bowls:
Dog bowls can be metal, plastic or ceramic, and he’ll need one for food and one for water. Metal and plastic bowls have the advantage of being inexpensive, lightweight, easy to clean and unbreakable, but ceramic ones are often more attractive, with decorative designs. They are also heavier, so it’s not as easy for your dog to shove them around the floor or knock them over. However, ceramic dishes may require hand-washing as they aren’t always dishwasher – safe. If you choose a ceramic bowl, make sure it was made in North America. Some foreign-made ceramics contain high levels of lead, which can leach into food or water and harm your dog.

If your dog is tall or deep – chested, or you’ve got a puppy that will grow to be that way, consider buying raised feeding bowls. They are more comfortable for him to eat from, and are recommended for dogs that are prone to bloat, because a dog swallows less air as he eats if he isn’t bent over. An older dog with arthritis can find it painful if he has to bend too far for his food, so he will also appreciate raised bowls.

Other special bowls you can buy include those with moats around them that will keep to ants and other crawling insects. And there are also bowls shaped to keep floppy ears from dragging through the food and water.

Automatic Watering and Feeding Systems:
Dogs are creatures of habit and they like to eat at the same time every day. But with busy schedules and traffic jams in the average dog owner’s day, it’s not always possible to get home right when your pooch is expecting to get his evening meal. If this is a common problem for you, an automatic feeding and watering system might be the answer. You can buy dishes that work on a timer and that pop open at whatever time you set them to. They can be filled with either dry food or, if you buy a deluxe model that keeps canned food refrigerated, with moist food that won’t spoil during the day.

To ensure that your pooch always has fresh, clean water, you can buy a dish that can be attached to a reservoir, such as a two – quart plastic bottle, or to a garden hose. Just keep the reservoir filled, making sure you change the water daily, or leave the hose slightly turned on. The bowl will refill automatically as your dog empties it.

Fear in Dogs and dealing with it

When a dog doesn’t understand something or finds himself in an unusual situation, he may become fearful. A well-adjusted dog who has been handled by lots of different people and constantly exposed to new things will take unusual situations in his stride, says Susan Anderson, D.V.M., a clinical instructor of outpatient medicine in the department of small animal clinical sciences at the University of Florida College of veterinary medicine in Gainesville.

A dog who was not a fortunate and was left alone too much when he was young will be confused and may have a difficult time making sense of the world around him.

The Fearful Dog:
A dog who gets nervous about many things – people approaching him, going for a ride in the car, loud noises such as thunder or the whir of the vacuum cleaner – is a fearful dog. This kind of dog assumes everything will come crashing down on him at any moment, so he tries to protect himself in anticipation. When people see a dog cower as someone friendly approaches him, they think the dog has been abused. While he may not have been physically abused, his self esteem has been damaged all the same.

The sight of a dog who is so afraid that nothing can calm him down is disturbing. He may growl, shake or try to run away and hide. And if you don’t solve the problem, his fearfulness can turn into aggression and fear biting.

How to Curb Fear:
Changing a fearful dog into a stable one is not easy and may take a long time, but it’s worth the effort. Don’t reassure your frightened dog by hugging him or telling him everything is okay. It’s not and he knows it’s not. He may be so panicky that he may try to bite you.

Instead, act calm and your dog will most likely follow your example. If you can laugh while your dog is struggling to escape the veterinarian’s exam, the upbeat mood will probably rub off on him. Its okay to give your dog a gentle touches when he’s nervous but don’t make too big a deal out of what’s bothering him.

To help your fearful dog, socialize him more by taking him everywhere you go. Bring along some dog biscuits and when people approach, ask them if they wouldn’t mind giving one to your dog. While he may not take it at first, he will eventually. If you do this often he will soon come to enjoy meeting strangers.

It also helps to handle your dog a lot. Rub your hands all over him as an examining vet might. This will relax him and accustom him to being touched.

You can also enroll your dog in obedience classes where he will learn the basic commands of sit, stay, down, heel and come. Not only does this build his confidence, it also gives you a technique to use with him the next time he gets spooked. He’ll regard you as the one in charge and the next time he gets worried, he’ll look to you to reassurance.

Fear of Loud Noises:
When dogs are afraid of loud noises they have good reason to be. “There sense of hearing is one hundred times greater than ours is, so everything sounds much louder to them than it does to us,” says Dr. Anderson. So don’t be surprised the next time you drop a tray of dishes or the alarm goes off and your dog rushes off and cowers in the corner.

To make your dog feel comfortable before the next big boom, play lots of noise games. While he’s eating, laugh out loud and rattle some pots and pans. Or pump up the volume while giving him treats. He’ll soon realize that noise is no cause for alarm.

Fear of Objects:
You can never predict what objects will frighten your young pup. It could be a large vase placed on the floor, an outdoor garbage can or that tire you put in the yard for him to climb on. Until he becomes familiar with them, your puppy will consider most objects as unknown “monsters.” He may stare at a strange object for a while before barking and running backward. If he’s feeling brave he might even creep forward slowly and quietly so as not to disturb it. To familiarize your dog with new things, go over to the object and sit beside it. Talk to your dog and reassure him in a very upbeat tone of voice that this is a very nice object. Run your hand over it. When your dog sees that it doesn’t attack you, he will gradually become less afraid.

Fear of Strangers:
Some people look scary without meaning to. The way they walk might seem menacing or that big hat they’re wearing can intimidate a young puppy that hasn’t seen much of the world yet. Some dogs are nervous just seeing people other than their family.

If your dog is frightened of people, take him with you when you visit a friend. Ask your friend to stoop down at your down at your dog’s side and offer him a small treat. Stand nearby and be calm. Don’t yank your dog’s collar or leash to prevent him from backing up. If he doesn’t want to take the treat, your friend can toss it to him. It can take some time for dogs to be comfortable around other people, so be patient. Don’t try to rush his progress.

“Once your dog improves, start asking other people to hold his leash while you stand there,” suggests Kathy Marmack, an animal training supervisor at the San Diego Zoo. “This way your dog learns that others can be leaders too.”

With enough practice, your dog will soon be confident enough to go sniffing strangers’ hands for treats the minute someone new approaches.

Family Planning for your Dog

There comes a time in the life of every dog owner when they have to decide whether their pet is going to be a parent or not. Left to their own devices, dogs will make up their own minds, usually before you have even noticed the small hole in the fence.

Dogs will spend most of their time and energy out on the town, looking for love. And given half a chance, they’ll mate at every opportunity. If a litter of 1 to 12 pups arrives almost every six months that a lot of extra mouths to feed.

For the welfare of your dog and for your peace of mind, you’ll need to give careful though to the question of neutering. Your doggy Don Juan won’t be slow in the search for love, so don’t put off thinking about if for too long.

What is Neutering?
The neutering operation itself is an extremely safe procedure, done under general anesthetic, to remove the dog’s reproductive organs. These organs produce the sex hormones: testosterone in males, estrogen in females. The dog’s instinct to mate is driven by these chemicals, which also make it possible to breed. In the neutering procedure, males have their testicles surgically removed from the scrotum. With females, the uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out.

After the operation, your dog’s dating days will be over. And in four to six weeks, he’ll have lost all desire to mate. There’ll be no more yard breakouts to find a friend. Your female dog will never again turn into a whining, pacing she-dog in heat. Imagine it. After six weeks, broken fences, nights of broken sleep, not to mention broken dog hearts, will all be a thing of the past.

When to Get It Done:
Dogs are usually neutered when about six months old. Female dogs are best spayed before their first heat, or estrus, cycle, which happens at around six months. Doing the operation before she goes into heat for the first time prevents estrogen from stimulating her mammary tissues, says Jay Geasling, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Buffalo, and president of the American Animal Hospital Association. This reduces the likelihood of her getting mammary tumors when she gets older.

Male dogs are neutered between six months and one year of age. “Neutering at this age is a tradition in veterinary medicine that began some time ago,” says Dr. Geasling. “Ultimately, a dog owner should have a dog neutered at the age that their individual vet recommends. And that is usually around six months.”
It’s never too late for your dog to be neutered. If your more mature dog hasn’t had the operation yet, there’s no reason why he can’t now. However, the younger the dog, the better his chances of avoiding complications.

The Cost:
The cost of neutering varies, depending on where you live. It also varies according to the size of the dog – basically, larger dogs cost more. Neutering a male dog can cost between $65 and $125. Vets will charge slightly more to spay a female, usually about $85 to $160, since the surgery is more involved than for a male. Altering elderly dogs or dogs with health problems may also cost a little more, as they tend to need a few diagnostic tests. These will ensure that the surgery goes smoothly, and provide your dog with the best surgical care for his condition.

Neutering is a lifelong investment. It will help your dog stay happy and healthy… and it’s hard to put a price on that.

Does It Hurt?
Neutering involves an operation – needles, an anesthetic and an overnight stay at the dog hospital. It’s not going to be one of his favorite experiences, but your vet will be taking all the care in the world and your pet will be quite okay.

He will experience very little discomfort with the surgery, says Mary Beth Leininger, D.V.N., president of the American Veterinary Medical Association. He’ll be under anesthesia, so the operation itself will be painless. There are few risks, adds Allan Paul, D.V.M., small animal extension veterinarian at the University Of Illinois College Of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana. Many recent improvements in surgery on animals and anesthesia mean the neutering is routine and extremely safe, he explains.

Your dog may feel a little tender until the wound heals. This is a normal part of the recovery process and it won’t last long. Your vet can give him something to help with any pain.

Exercise Guidelines for Dog Breeds

Every healthy dog needs 30 to 46 minutes of exercise a day, says Bob McKowen, a dog show and field trail judge in Leola, Pennsylvania. Exercise can mean all sorts of active dog-fun things. For a tiny dog, a proper workout could be accomplished without having to leave a studio apartment. Medium to large dogs might need a brisk two mile walk or a vigorous play session inside a spacious fenced park or yard. It all depends on your dog’s breed or body type and her age.

What’s Right for your Dog?
When working out how much and what kind of exercise your dog needs, consider her breed or, if she’s a mixed breed, look at her body to get some clues about what you think she’d like to get up to. Your dog is probably no longer doing what her ancestors were bred to do, but if you can match her exercise needs to her breed needs, she’ll get the maximum out of her daily routine and enjoy it all so much more. And whatever you settle on, just make sure you always include a warm up of simple stretches and a cool down afterward.

The All-American Mix:
With a mixed breed dog, let her size and the activities that she most enjoys guide you when setting up an exercise regimen just for her. If she’s medium to large, start with a 20 minute walk or jog twice a day, followed by 10 minutes of her favorite game, be it chasing a Frisbee or ball, playing tag or swimming. If she’s print-size, exercise her in the same way as any toy breed.

Sporting Types:
These breeds, which include spaniels, pointers, setters and retrievers, as well as the Vizsla and Weimaraner, thrive on vigorous outdoor activity. They also enjoy activities with a mental challenge. A brisk 20 minutes of strenuous play, gets a sporting dog off to a good start. This should be repeated later in the day, or let her have a good swim instead if she likes water.

Hound Dogs:
Sight hound were originally bred to run down speedy prey. So their ideal exercise program could include 20 minutes of brisk walking and jogging, followed by an opportunity to stretch out and run (in safely fenced area) for 5 or 10 minutes. If there’s no place to let your hound run, set aside 30 minutes for the two of you to have a morning jog. She will also relish a game of chase after a long, brisk walk.

Scent hounds, which worked at a slower pace with their noses to the ground, tend to be a little more laid-back. Give your scent hounds a walk and jog for 20 to 25 minutes, unless you can persuade her to play ball or tag with you for part of the time. Any dog with a breed name that includes “retriever” will enjoy a game of fetch catch, and she’ll also love swimming. Most spaniels like to fetch and are also partial to a swim. While small enough to get a certain amount of exercise from playing indoor games, Dachshunds still need a 15-minute walk every morning. Whichever workout fits your hound, do it again in the evening.

The Workers:
Working dogs traditionally kept going for as long as their services were needed, herding livestock in all weathers. Give your working dog a work out for 20 to 30 minutes every morning by walking and jogging with her, or combine walking with some strenuous game playing in the yard. Repeat this later in the day or take her for a good long swimming session instead.

Terriers:
Terriers always led very active lives – they were constantly busy hunting and sniffing out prey. Large terriers need a brisk walk lasting for 2 to 30 minutes of rowdy play in the yard. Some of them also enjoy a swim. Do it again in the evening. Smaller or less active terriers will stay in shape with a 15 minute walk morning and evening, provided you play some indoor games together each day. Terriers love the chase; some will fetch too, while others prefer to “play-kill” a toy. Most can also be easily taught games such as hide-and-seek and tag.

Toys:
Dedicated lap sitters, toys are probably the least active of all dogs. A 15 minute walk morning and evening is enough for most tiny dogs, provided they are also encouraged to play indoor games. If you can’t manage long walks, teach your dog to retrieve a ball – then you can exercise her from your recliner. Many toy breeds have a strong instinct to chase and retrieve, so a bouncy ball the right size for her mouth or a small Frisbee will make the ideal basis for a game.

Non-Sporty Types:
Non sporting dogs are a varied lot, and certainly not the couch potatoes that their group name suggests. So look at your dog’s size and body style before establishing an exercise program. For example, the smaller ones, such as the Boston terrier, Schipperke and Bichon Frise, need the same amount of exercise as the smaller members of the terrier group. However, the Keeshond, Standard Poodle, Finnish Spitz and Dalmatian should be exercised in the same way as any sporting or working dog.

The Herders:
These dogs are noted for their stamina. A brisk walk or jog for 20 to 30 minutes, along with some time to chase balls or flying Frisbees, will start your herding dog’s day off right. You could either repeat this in the evening or take her for a swim. And with her energy and her intelligence, she will find games with a purpose, such as hide – and – seek, especially appealing.

The Custom – Made Constitutional:
You know your dog better than anyone, so that makes you her ideal personal trainer. When you are developing an exercise program especially tailored to her needs, there are a few things, in addition to the type of dog she is, that you should keep in mind.

A dog that seems exhausted after her workout may want less of a good thing. And if there is abrupt change in your dog’s attitude toward exercise and she suddenly tires easily, she could be ill, so take her to your vet. A noisy or destructive dog probably isn’t getting a long enough work out. Try giving her more exercise.

The breeds with a super short nose, such as the bulldog or pug, often have difficulty with breathing. If your dog is in this category, go easy with her exercise program. Be especially cautious when the weather is humid because of the risk of heatstroke, and always exercise her during the coolest part of the day.

A dog that is overweight or just plain out of shape should never start out with a full fledged workout. Instead, give her a quarter of the recommended amount of exercise for two weeks; increase this to half the recommended amount for a couple of weeks, and then increase it again to three quarters for another two weeks. By the end of six weeks, she should be ready to go the distance.

For the dog that is starting to show her age, make her workout sessions lighter, but don’t stop altogether. Exercise keeps older dogs stimulated and supple, and helps their bodies to stay fit.

Stop Dogs eating and rolling in Dung

Most owners take a lot of pride in the food they serve their dog. So when your dog shows a liking for dung, it can come as a shock. Once he develops a taste for the unspeakable, it becomes a habit that’s difficult to break. He gobbles it up as fast as he can, then think nothing of trotting over to give up a kiss and cuddle.

The odor is enough to knock you over. And if you think eating his own or another animal’s stool is one of the most distasteful things your dog can do, you’re right. Until, that is, you see him rolling around in it as well.

Why they do it:
There are a couple of reasons why your dog may consider dung to be a delicacy. It may fill a nutritional need that isn’t being met by his conventional everyday dog food. Or he may have seen another dog is a Labrador retriever or golden retriever, and then he has been genetically programmed to pick up things in his mouth.

As for rolling around in it, this behavior is a leftover from the time when dogs roamed wild. In order to put predators off the trail, wild dogs covered themselves with foul-smelling messes to mask their own scent. Rolling and twisting in dung also probably feels like a good back massage to your dog – nothing else seems to get to those hard – to – reach places along his spine.

How to stop it:
If your dog picks up dung in his mouth while you are out walking, command him to “Leave it.” Back in your own yard, supervise your dog’s toilet time and clean up immediately afterward. “If it’s not there, he won’t eat it,” says Dorothy Laflamme, D.V.M., a veterinary nutrition.

If your dog still persists in dinning on dung, try spraying it with a pet repellent, such as bitter apple. You can also sprinkle Adolph’s meat Tenderizer, accent or a product called Forbid on your dog’s food before he eats it. These three products will give his dung a taste even he won’t be able to stand.
To stop your dog rocking and rolling in muck, keep your yard free from messy substances you wouldn’t want to see in your living room. If your dog is prone to doing this while you’re out on walks, keep him on a leash.

If you’re exercising your dog outdoors and you see a problem area up ahead, call your dog to “Come” immediately and distract him with a game or a few obedience drills.

Teaching your Dog to “Leave it”
When you tell your dog to “Leave it” you’re really saying “Ignore it immediately.” Teaching him not to go near dung or anything else that takes his fancy is a big challenge, so begin teaching this command indoors where it’s quiet. Ideally, you want your dog to ignore the item that draws his attention the minute you tell him to.

1.    With his training collar and leash on, command your dog to sit in front of you. Show him a piece of food and tell him to “Leave it.”
2.    Shorten the leash, and then throw the food a short distance away, all the while telling your dog to “Leave it.”
3.    When he rushes to get it, jerk the leash. When he stays by your side praise him and reward him with a tidbit. Repeat the process until he understands the command. Test him with more aromatic food before taking the act on the road.

Dogs and Children

Who could be better at keeping pace with a wonderfully energetic young dog than an equally energetic young human? Growing up together, spending part of every day playing and hugging, keeping each other company, offering each other comfort in hard times, a friendship can be made that is remembered for a lifetime.

Preparing for New Arrival:
If you and your family don’t have a dog, then chances are your children haven’t had much exposure to dogs. That means they won’t have much idea about what dogs do and don’t like. They might also be a bit tentative and nervous around this hairy thing that pants and barks and seems almost as big as they are. Your children will need to be well prepared for the arrival of your new family member, so that they can be confident and careful dog lovers. Give them as much time as they need to get used to your dog.

They must learn how to behave around a dog, and the way to handle one properly, particularly if it’s a pup. “Parents must teach their children how to carry a puppy and how to approach a puppy,” says Dr. Lalonde. “Otherwise, aggression problems in the dog might develop.

A dog isn’t a toy, children need to be gentle, and not too rowdy to begin with, until your dog is used to them and they are used to your dog.

Always make sure there’s an adult around to supervise whenever your new dog and the kids get together, advises Dr. Hunthausen. You’ll then be assured of everyone’s safety and enjoyment, until you are confident that they are all consistently doing the right thing.

Training: A Family Thing
Of course, it’s not just the kids that need to learn how to behave. Your new dog should also be taken lessons. Find a training school that will let children take part, or if they are too young, at least where they’ll be allowed to watch, suggests Bonhower. “Kids love it if they can tell a dog what to do and she does it,” she says.

There are other benefits to making training a family affair, explains Dr. Lalonde. “While there’s only one person holding the leash, the other family members are looking on,” se says.

There are other benefits to making training a family affair, explains Dr. Lalonde. “While there’s only one person holding the leash, the other family members are looking on,” she says.

“This way everyone learns the same commands, which provides the consistency the dog needs.”

Young Pups:
The line between canine and human can occasionally become blurred for young puppies. “Sometimes, kids act more like puppies than humans,” explains Bonhower. “Running around and screaming – these things can get the puppy excited. If one of her siblings were playing in that way, the puppy would probably nip at him.”

Explain to your children that when they play rough, the puppy can lose control in its eagerness to join in. “If this happens with your kids teach them to squeal like a puppy, even if the nip didn’t hurt much. This will teach the new pup bite inhibition.” And the children are less likely to be unintentionally hurt.

It’s best to encourage your children to play quieter games with the puppy, and to confine her when the children are playing hard.

Adult Dogs:
What about adult dogs around children, especially those dogs from uncertain background?

“Behaviorally, there’s a risk when you don’t know a dogs history,” says Dr. Hunthausen.

“Adopting a shelter dog is a courageous thing to do, since you can never be entirely sure what sort of animal you’re dealing with.”

He advises that you keep your new dog on a leash whenever she’s around children. Make sure she remains under control she exhibits diligence and kindness, you’ll likely end up with a terrific pet for the whole family.

Dog Proofing Your Home

What do you do if you see something interesting on the floor? If you’re a puppy, you sniff it, and then pick it up in your mouth. This tactic works pretty well if the item happens to be an inoffensive chew toy or a piece of kibble. But what if it’s a quarter, or foam – rubber sponge, or a battery?

You may think your house is perfectly safe, but to a dog it’s full of fascinating, yet potentially dangerous, attractions. This is particularly true when you get a new dog, since she’ll be eager to explore – and taste – her new surroundings.

The majority of vets would recommend that you take a tour through your house, garage and yard from a dog’s eye view. Get down on all fours and move around and you’ll be amazed at the number of chewable everyday items you come across; electrical cords, children’s toys, bars of soap, books, even jewelry.
“Use the same precautions for a dog that you would for children,” says Robert Linnabary, D.V.M., an instructor at the University Of Tennessee College Of Veterinary medicine in Knoxville. “But remember that dogs are better at breaking open bottles and boxes.”

Home Safety:
Whether you’re getting a puppy or an older dog, you can be sure her first order of business will be checking out her new digs. Here’s a room – by – room guide to the things to watch out for, so she doesn’t get into something she shouldn’t.

The Kitchen:
The families spend a lot of time in the kitchen and so will your new pet. While nosey dogs don’t have hands to wrest open cupboard doors, they do have surprisingly agile paws and most determined muzzles, so it’s important to lock cleaning supplies away where they can do no harm. You may even want to think about installing childproof locks on those cabinets where you store solvents and cleaning materials.

Since even the best behaved dogs enjoy making the occasional foray into the garbage, it’s a good idea to keep it safely stored away. Or pick up a can with a tight – fitting lid.

You can further reduce her natural inclination to explore by placing especially appetizing – and dangerous – items, such as chicken bones, in the freezer until you’re ready to take them out to the trash. Not only will this eliminate the danger of sharp, splintered bones, it will also protect your dog from illnesses caused by eating old, spoiled foods.

Another common canine hazard that often lurks around the kitchen is chocolate. This favorite people food contains a stimulant called theobromine, which can make dogs seriously ill.

Chocolate should be though of as a poison to dogs, says Dr. Linnabary.

“I’ve even seen a case of a dog getting very ill from a Snickers Bar, which seems mostly caramel and nuts and very little chocolate.”

The effect on the dogs is both does – and size – dependent, adds Jay Geasling, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Buffalo and president of the American animal Hospital Association. “The smaller the dog, the less chocolate it needs to eat in order to overdoes.”

Even such innocent items as towels, throw rugs and dishcloths can be dangerous, because dogs do love to chew them. If your dog swallows a big enough piece, it could cause an obstruction in the intestine, resulting in serious, even life – threatening problems. So if you’re pet seems to be a material girl, find an out – of – the – way spot all your kitchen linen.

The Bathroom:
Dogs don’t use the toilet or settle in for long steamy baths, but they’ll often explore the bathroom just to see what’s there. All too often, they discover enticing tastes that they can’t resist – but that can make them seriously ill.

Colorful, fun-smelling bottles and soaps sitting along the side of the tub are an open invitation to your dog to explore says Priscilla J. Whittington, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Yorktown heights, New York. An elevated shower caddy is a great way to keep shampoos, conditioners and soaps well out of harm’s way. And don’t forget to store cleaning powders and disinfectants out of dog reach in a cabinet – preferably one that has a tight fitting latch.

Don’t take any chances with your children’s tub toys, either. They look very much like your dog’s chew toys, but they aren’t designed with her strong jaws and teeth in mind.

Sanitary napkins and tampons are highly absorbent, and that means they’re a problem if your dog chews them and they get inside her intestinal tract. “Be on the safe side and make sure you don’t let your dog have access to any trash that might contain items such as these,” says Christine Wilford, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Seattle and regular columnist for American kennel club Gazette.

The Living Room and Den:
We think of family rooms as comfort rooms, but for dogs – unfriendly objects in living rooms and dens is a varied as each family. Do you pain? Sew? Knit? Listen to music? Play chess? The materials used for many hobbies can be extremely dangerous to your dog.

The easiest and most practical solution is to store these items in their own special carriers and put them away when you’re done. Keep a knitting bag instead of an open basket of needles and yarn.

Put your paints in an art bin. Find a high nook for that ongoing game of chess. While you’re at it, teach your kids to put away their toys when they’re finished playing. (Once they’ve lost a favorite toy or two to sharp doggy teeth, this will become easier.)

“Some dogs have perverse appetites,” says Dr. Linnabary. “They may eat something like cigarettes from boredom, and then get seriously ill.” If anyone in your family smokes, empty ashtrays regularly. Be careful with chewing tobacco, too, which generally comes in cardboard canisters or bags – no problem for prying pooch.

And don’t forget electrical cords. If possible, coil cords and tuck them out of sight. Or cover cords hanging against a wall with metal covers, which you can get from lighting supply stores. At the very least, says Dr. Wilford, you may want to move lamps and other appliances until your dog outgrows that particular interest.

While chewing cords is mainly a problem with puppies, certain “mouthy” breeds, such as Labradors and Golden Retrievers, will be tempted by them all their lives. In this case, you may want to permanently rearrange your furniture to get all cords out of sight, says Dr. Wilford.

“Repellents like bitter apple are short – lived and often ineffective,” she adds. “Taping the cord to the floor doesn’t solve any problems, either. A dog will simply chew through the tape – and it takes only a second for her to be electrocuted.”

The Bedrooms:
Just because you sleep through the night doesn’t mean your dog is similarly disposed. New dogs are particularly prone to being wakeful, and what better place to idle away the midnight hour than the family bedrooms.

Children’s bedrooms are especially tempting to dogs because of all the toothsome toys lying about. Small rubber balls or even uninflated balloons are easy to swallow – and choke on. Every night before bed, take a few minutes to make sure toys are off the floor and out of the way.

Adult bedrooms harbor two top doggy dangers: nylon stockings and medications. Stockings are easily swallowed and can obstruct the intestine. And medications are as dangerous to dogs as they are to children. What’s more, a small dose for a human may be an overdose for a dog. So keep all medications out of reach. And don’t think that bottles with childproof caps will stop her.

It’s also best no to leave your change and jewelry on the dresser. Your four – legged forage might give them a taste test the minute your back is turned. Instead, place your change in a narrow – necked bottle and put rings, cuff links and earrings in a safely stowed jewelry box.

The Garage:
Even the best – kept garage can be a hazardous place for a dog. There are all those screws and nails that invariably wind up on the floor. Then there’s the paint thinner, insecticide, fertilizer and other poisons lurking about.

“Antifreeze is perhaps the biggest danger to your dog,” says Dr. Whittington. “First, because it’s so sweet smelling and attractive to her, and second, because it’s so deadly. If the antidote isn’t given within 24 hours, the dog is likely to die.”

When strong antifreeze, put it well out of reach. Also periodically check beneath the car: antifreeze leaking from a hose is just as dangerous as when it pours from a bottle. You may want to use new, less toxic antifreeze. It’s still poisonous, but not as much as the traditional kind.

When dog – proofing the garage, pay special attention to any poisonous substances lying about. Slug bait in particular can be big trouble.

“It doesn’t take much to harm even a large dog,” says Dr. Linnabary. In fact, when it comes to dog – proofing your garage, the safest bet would be to make the whole area off of limits.

The Garden and Yard:
For dogs, gardens and lawns offer a veritable smorgasbord of smells – and, all too often, tastes. More than a few plants, given a nibble or two, can turn your dog a little green.

Various common outdoor plants can harm your dog, as can some fruits and vegetables. Dogs dig so they may eat the poisonous underground parts of spring bulbs.

And don’t overlook your indoor garden. Your dog won’t, so it’s a good idea to move all houseplants out of her reach. Hanging plants and those on windows sills are probably safe, but it’s best to move any plants off the floor or tables to higher shelves. Incidentally, you need to be particularly careful around the holidays, since traditional plants, such as poinsettia and mistletoe, can be extremely poisonous. To be safe, you may want to use the artificial varieties instead.

For a complete list of the poisonous plants found in your neighborhood, Dr. Linnabary suggests contacting your county agent.

If you keep a compost pile or barrel, make sure your dog isn’t able to get to the partially decomposed food inside. “We had to treat a West Highland white terrier once who had eaten part of a corn cob, which then obstructed his digestive tract,” says Dr. Whittington.

Then there are sticks, everyone knows that dogs and sticks go together like peanut butter and jelly. Or do they? “Sticks can perforate the roof of a dog’s mouth, its throat or intestine,” says Dr. Wilford. “I had someone bring in a Doberman who hadn’t eaten in days I looked inside her mouth and found a small stick wedged between her back teeth.”

A better alternative is to provide your dog with hard, splinter – free chews, such as Kongs or Nylabones. And while it may be difficult to remove every stick from your yard, it’s a good idea to make a careful sweep of the area following a storm, and get rid of any new branches that may have blown down.

Home Security:
Nothing could be more heartbreaking than to welcome your new dog into your family, only to lose her through a hole in (or under) your back fence. It’s not that your dog necessarily wants to make a break. It’s just that the outside world with all its smells and sounds is so enticing.

Before letting your new dog run, take a stroll around the yard. Are there any loose boards in the fence? Gaps that she could squeeze through? A soft place where she can dig?

Your dog will spot potential escape routes more quickly than you will. Dr. Greasling suggests putting her on a leash and strolling around the perimeter of the yard. “Let her explore with you. And chances are she might find something you missed – a loose broad or small hole, for instance.”

Stay with your dog while she makes herself familiar with her new yard, and praise her when she stays and plays where you want her to. If she becomes bored, she’s more likely to go looking for excitement on the other side. When you’re there to play with her, however, the temptation to find fun outside will diminish.