Labrador - What Happens at a Show

 

LABRADOR – WHAT HAPPENS AT A SHOW

Exhibiting events range from informal local competitions, to open shows for all breeds, to exclusive Labrador championships. Each has its own rules, but all follow similar principles in the quest to find a truly outstanding dog. Shows can provide a very sociable and rewarding day out for owners and canines alike.

Settling in at the Benches:
At most shows, dogs remain with their owners, but at some events your Labrador will be housed at a numbered “bench”. Secure your dog with a benching chain and offer it a drink of water. Have someone sit by the bench so your so your dog does not become bored or lonely, and postpone meals until after it is shown to keep it a active and alert.

Adjusting the “Stand”
For show presentation, your dog must adopt an appropriate stance. Train it from an early age to stand on command with its tail out, legs straight, and head held high. During the judge’s examination, you should interfere as little as possible, but you may encourage correct posture by using eye contact. Be cautious with food rewards; they can be over – exciting or may cause your dog to salivate unattractively.

Judge Inspection:
When called, enter the ring and set your Labrador in its “show stance”. The judge will examine the body in detail to see how closely it conforms to the breed standard. Your dog’s temperament is being noted too, and any nervousness, resistance, or aggression will be viewed unfavorably.

Line – up of finalists:
After the individual assessments, a short list of five or six dogs is chosen and re – inspected. The judge will then place the finalists in order of merit, awarding rosettes for first, second, and third place, as well as for “reserve” and highly commended” contenders.

Assessment of the Gait:
The judge will ask for each dog to be walked round the ring, to appraise its movement. Dogs should “gait” with confidence and fluid grace; a stilted or hesitant manner will be penalized. Symmetry between dog and handler is also important. Some Labradors are natural show – offs and relish parading in the ring.

Excitement of Participating:
At the highest levels of exhibiting, training and ring handling are performed by professionals. In lesser leagues, owners show their own dogs, and attend events as an enjoyable hobby, offering friendly competition and the chance to socialize with like – minded people – all in all, a pleasant day’s outing.

Best of Breed:
Winning dogs will have the physical attributes of a champion along with a “star” personality. It is a tremendous achievement if your Labrador has captured a prize. Yet ideal looks and show style are not the sole Criteria of an outstanding dog; any dog in glowing health and with a fine temperament is just as much a winner. Countless “champions” are never seen in a show ring.

Labrador - Specialized Training

Labradors thrive on the challenge of advanced training, and their responsive nature and eagerness to please make them adept competitors in obedience, agility, and field trials. The Labrador’s keen scenting abilities, “soft mouth”, and strong retrieval instinct also give it superb potential as a gundog.

Field and Hunting Roles:
Retrieve Training:
Before practicing retrieves, a dog must be well controlled, reliably walking to heel and always coming when called. After your Labrador has learned to hold and then give a canvas – covered dummy gently to hand, teach it to wait while the dummy is thrown before fetching it on command. Attend gundog classes to master relevant whistle, verbal, and directional commands, and retrieves from all types of cover as well as in and across water. Formal training accustoms your dog to working on unfamiliar terrain and with distraction of other dogs and handlers.

Working to the Gun:
With the supervision of an experienced trainer, introduce your dog to gunfire, then work on scenting and tenderly collecting freshly – killed game. In field trails and at hunts, dogs must be steady at all times, never chasing unshot game, and only leaving your side when instructed.

Selecting the Right Puppy for Training:
All Labradors share an instinctive desire to retrieve, and have been bred to respond well to human direction. They are also “soft mouthed” – able to hold items gently. With dedicated tuition, most Labradors can be trained in advanced obedience, agility, or gunwork. However, various kennels specialize in producing dogs for different roles, especially field trials and show ring. Field trialing requires nimbleness, swift response to command, and highly developed scenting skills. If you plan to enter this very competitive sport, seek advice from a successful field – trial trainer on selecting the most suitable puppy.

Advanced Obedience Trails:
Sustained lie – Down on Command:
Competitive obedience trials provide excellent mental stimulation. Begin classes at six months, after your dog has mastered walking on a lead and basic commands. Advanced training includes close and fast – pace heelwork, retrieves, recalls, distant control, sustained sit/downs (sometimes for as long as 10 minutes with the handler out of sigh), send – away/down/return sequences, and scent discrimination.

Retrieving a Dumb – bell:
Labradors have a natural advantage in retrieval tests, and can be trained to high levels. Beginning with a dumb – bell, dog’s progress to fetching items provided by the trials judge.

Training in Agility:
Negotiating Obstacles:
Agility courses open to all dogs are run against time. The Labrador is not as fast as some other breeds, but can be very nimble if enthusiasm is restrained. To be successful, your dog must respond well off a lead and tackle obstacles only on your command.

Tipping a See-saw:
Agility work requires dexterity, confidence, and instant response to command, and can be a productive channel for restless energy. Standard trial apparatus includes an “A” frame, hurdles, a tyre, poles to weave through, a tunnel, and a see – saw. Training demands ample patience; start when your dog is a year old by enrolling in a local club. Make sure that both you’re your Labrador are sufficiently fit to participate.

Labrador - Preparing For a Show

Taking part in a dog show can be great fun, but both you and your Labrador should be fully prepared. Teach your dog show manners, and make sure it is in prime condition, as it will be judged against a breed standard of ideal physical and personality characteristics typifying the “perfect” specimen.

Basic Equipment for you and your Dog:
For Handling and Security:
You will need a non – check show collar that permits the judge to have an unimpeded view of your dogs neck, and a slim lead about 1.5 m (5 ft) long. If attending a “benched” event, take a benching chain to secure your dog in its allotted space, as well as identification number clip.

Transport and Supplies:
Your dog will travel best in a crate loaded in the back of a car. Pack food and water for your dog, along with its bowls. If you plan to picnic, also take refreshments for yourself. Folding chairs and a large umbrella for sun or rain protection are essential, as are plastic bags or a “poop scoop” to clear up your dog’s mess. A towel is useful for cleaning muddy paws. All supplies, including grooming equipment, should be kept in a designated bag.

Meeting Show Standards:
Visit shows alone first to see exactly what occurs. While working trials require dogs well – trained in obedience and a variety of specialized skills, kennel club events demand only beauty and personality. For these, your dog’s coat must be in good condition, its ears clear of wax, and the teeth tartar – free. Bathe your dog and clip its nails a few days before a show, to allow renewal of the coat’s gloss by natural oils. Use a conditioner only with the advice of experienced exhibitors. Remember, no cosmetic aids to improve a dog’s looks are permitted at show.

Training and Temperament for the Ring:
Accepting Close Examination:
A successful show dog has been trained from puppyhood to accept scrutiny from strangers. Reward your dog for permitting unfamiliar people to handle it a ring judge would – allowing the hindquarters to be touched, and the mouth to be opened and the teeth examined. Judges prefer dogs that are amenable as well as handsome.

Learning to Stand for Inspection:
Young Labradors in particular often wiggle with excitement when touched. Create a show – ring environment at home, where your dog can learn to stand still while being inspected. Train with food treats – acceptable bribes in real shows. With maturity, most Labradors become calmer in the ring.

Staying Lively and Alert:
A dog show is exciting for owners because of the hope of winning, and exciting for canines since it is an opportunity to meet many other dogs. However, by the time your dog is due to enter the ring, it may be bored, and bored dogs do not win prizes. Labradors revive instantly at the scent of food. Use favorite treats to keep your dog bright and animated while performing for the show judge.

Cost of Showing:
Showing your Labrador Retriever can be inexpensive, or surprisingly costly. If you show your own dog, your only expenses are entry fees, transport, and accommodation. At the highest levels on the show circuit, professional trainers and handlers are frequently employed. This can add a very considerable financial burden, and it is a rare dog that is so successful that handling costs are earned back in stud fees or puppy prices. If your are not interested in serious exhibiting, a more sensible approach to showing your Labrador is to consider it a pleasurable pastime for both you and your dog.

Labrador - Assitance Roles

The Labrador has a variety of inbred attributes which make it an ideal service dog. Its genial nature, responsiveness to training, and retrieving abilities are invaluable in assisting the disabled, while its gundog’s nose has been well employed in scent trailing for search and rescue or detection roles.
Bred and Trained as a Helping Companion:
Early training:
Labrador Retrievers and Labrador cross – breeds are the most popular dogs for assisting the blind. The largest guide – dog training centres breed their own stock. Puppies live in volunteers’ homes, where they receive basic training and are exposed to a range of learning scenarios.

Making of a Guide Dog:
The Labrador’s medium size, eagerness to please, receptiveness to training, and, above all, its steady temperament make it ideal for assistance work. In breeding programmes, dogs are selectively bred fro a calm, sensible attitude in unusual situations, ensuring a low drop – out rate – less than 30 per cent – during the subsequent months of formal training at regional guide – dog centres.

Eyes for the Blind:
Since guide dogs and owners typically share their lives for eight to nine years, it is important that their personalities are compatible. Training – centre staff initially assess the relationship during a period of residential instruction, where both dog and prospective owner learn to understand each other. After the pair have “graduated”, specialized staff makes home visits to ensure that the partnership is working well.

Home Help:
As natural retrievers, Labradors enjoy carrying objects and can easily be trained to fetch common household items, to help the infirm or disabled. Dogs with particularly gregarious characters can act as ears for deaf people, alerting their owners to important sounds, such as a doorbell ringing or a baby crying. Sometimes, young guide dogs that prove too active for the role are retained as “hearing” dogs.

Mobility for the Disabled:
A Labrador can be taught to meet the specific needs of its disabled owner – to pull a wheelchair along, pick up dropped items, open certain types of door stand and push life buttons, or even to open clothes dryers and take out the washing! All these activities provide physical and mental stimulation for the well – trained dog. An added bonus is that a disabled person will often be acknowledged and approached much more readily when accompanied by a friendly canine assistant.

Scent – Trailing Skills for Search and Rescue:
In earthquakes and avalanches, search and rescue Labrador trained to follow air and ground scent trails perform well. Many also help to locate people lost in mountainous regions. The first cave – probing search and rescue dog was a Labrador, who successfully navigated a labyrinth of subterranean passageways to lead a stranded party to safety. The breed’s scent – detecting roles have extended to work with police forces, tracking illicit drugs. Labradors have also been employed in Scandinavia to uncover mould in timber yards, and in the United Kingdom to reveal rising damp in homes.

Labrador - Pre and Post - Whelping

As the day of birth approaches, introduce the expectant mother to her whelping box and arrange for your vet to be on call in case of problems. Although Labradors seldom have difficulties, it is best to have experienced help both at the delivery and alter, for after – care of weak puppies.

Introducing a Whelping Box:
Several weeks before she is due to deliver; familiarize the mother – to – be with her whelping box. The box should have a length and width of at least 1.2 cm (4 ft), and be made of marine ply, which will not be damaged by birth fluids. Three sides should be 45 – 50 cm (18-20 in) high to prevent the puppies from wandering off, while the fourth should have a lockable opening to allow the mother easy access. Start collecting newspaper; you will need several bundles to line the box and to serve as bedding for the new puppies for the next two months.

Signs of Impending Birth:
You bitch is likely to refuse food shortly before she goes into labour. She will restlessly seek out her whelping box and start to tear up the bedding, preparing a nest for her puppies. Her body temperature will drop, and she may pant. When her waters break and contractions begin, birth is imminent, keep other animals and strangers away during the labour.

Delivery Case:
If you have never been present at a birth, ask an experienced dog breeder to attend, and inform your vet when labour begins. Keep the room temperature at around 25 degree C (77 degree F). If after two hours your bitch does not produce a puppy, contact your vet once again for advice. The puppy’s position may need manipulating to facilitate delivery. Although uncommon, some Labradors do require a Caesarean section. Place a warm, towel – covered hot – water bottle in a cardboard box, and keep this nearby as a safe receptacle for each newly – delivered puppy. The box may also be used to transport the puppies if mother and litter need to be taken to the vet.

The new Litter:
Towel – dry each puppy after it is delivered, and clear its nose of mucus; all newborns should squeal and wriggle. During whelping, offer the mother drinks of warm milk. Let her rest after labour has ended and all placentas have been delivered. Place each puppy by a teat to suckle. The mother will also require plenty of nourishment in the coming weeks – at peak lactation, up to four times her normal intake.

Assisting a Weak or Abandoned Puppy:
Helping to Suckle:
On average, one out of seven puppies is born relatively small and weak. Runts are often the least healthy of the litter, and if left to nature frequently die within a few days. To aid survival, place a frail puppy near the teats offering the best supply of milk.

Bottle Feeding:
In large, healthy litters where there simply is not enough milk to feel all the puppies, or when the mother is incapacitated or abandons her offspring; use canine milk formula as a supplement. Bottle feed initially every two or three hours, seeking your vet’s guidance on the correct quantities.

Growing Together:
After three weeks, the puppies begin to explore; by 12 weeks, their sense are fully developed. Handle and groom all puppies often, so they learn to accept touched by humans, but do not upset the protective mother. Gentle exposure to new sights and sounds now will help the puppies to grow into well adjusted, adaptable adults.

Labradors - Origin of the Breed

The Labrador’s probable source is the lesser Newfoundland or St. John’s dog, perhaps intermingled with dogs brought to Canada’s shores by European fishermen. Today’s Labrador was refined through English Breeding, while original dogs from Newfoundland are the basis for many other breeds.

History of the Labrador Retriever:
Canadian ancestors:
By the early 1800s there were two distinct types of dog Newfoundland – large, heavy – coated dogs used as draught animals and for collecting nets, and smaller, dense – coated dogs worked as retrievers on land and water. Admired for their skills and loyalty, they were brought to England by local fishermen until 1885, when Newfoundland destroyed its dogs to promote sheep farming.

First Labrador Breeders:
The dog’s hardy constitution and fine retrieving abilities were noted by English landowners, who purchased them for gunwork. Aristocrats, notably the Earls of Malmesbury and Dukes of Bucceleuch, developed successful breeding programmes and created intense in the new “Labrador” as a sporting dog. Colonel Peter Hawker and Lord Knutsford were also instrumental in establishing the breed and its official standard.

Nearest Relatives:
Although now quite different in size, the Newfoundland and Labrador probably have similar origins in mastiffs and working dogs taken to Canada by Portuguese, Basque, and English fishermen. Today, they share the same equable disposition, and are both physically and temperamentally not too distant from Iberian breeds such as the Portuguese Cattle Dog. The original dogs from Newfoundland are the root stock of all Retrievers. Chesapeake Bay Retrievers descend from dogs taken directly to Maryland. Curly – coated and flat – coated Retrievers are the result of cross – breeding with regional English dogs, while Golden Retrievers – so resembling Labradors in character and utility – are, in fact, more distant descendants derived from flat – ones.

Curly – Coated Retriever:
Early Labradors crossed with now – extinct English Water Spaniel.

Flat – Coated Retriever:
Produced by crossing Great and Lesser St. John’s Dogs, then crossing the result with Setters.

Portuguese Cattle Dog:
Working breed used by Basque and Portuguese fishermen may be distant ancestor of Labrador.

Golden Retriever:
Flat – coated Retriever crossed with now – extinct Tweed Water Spaniel.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever:
Result of Lesser St. John’s Dogs bred with local American hounds.

The Curious Labradooble:
The Labrador’s co – operative nature makes it an ideal service dog – easy to train, and an affable companion for the disabled. However, its hair is shed heavily, creating problems for people allergic to dog dander. Therefore, in an attempt to develop a non – moulting dog with the Labrador’s responsive and easy – going character, Australian breeders in 1989 began crossing Labradors with standard Poodles. The resulting Labradooble is certainly distinctive, but while the combination appears to produce a genial temperament, the non-shedding characteristic has not yet become fixed attribute.

Labrador - Reproduction

 
Producing a litter of Labrador retriever puppies is in itself easy, since both male and female Labradors are naturally good breeders. However, the decision to mate your dog must be made responsibly – following sound professional guidance, and always with the best interest of the breed at heart.

The Mating Instinct:
Healthy males as young as 10 months can be used for mating. It is best to wait until a female is about two years old, in roughly her third oestrous cycle, when she is emotionally prepared for a litter. Ovulation usually occurs 10 – 12 days after the first sign of bleeding and vulvar swelling. The most successful Matings generally take place on the male’s home turf.

Pregnancy Diagnosis:
Ovulation, the optimum time to mate, is accurately indicated by an increased level of the hormone progesterone in the blood. Pregnancy, however, cannot be confirmed by blood or urine tests. An ultrasound scan at three weeks or a physical examination slightly later remains the best means of diagnosis.

Dealing with Mismating:
Mismatings can be avoided by keeping a watchful eye on your bitch when in season, by using tablets or injections to prevent ovulation, or by spaying. If an unwanted mating does occur, contact your vet. A pregnancy can be terminated, usually within three days of mating, with a hormone injection. This will induce an immediate repeat season, demanding renewed vigilance for 8 – 15 days after the beginning of vaginal discharge.

Special Needs of an Expectant Bitch:
During the first month of pregnancy, a bitch should continue to exercise freely. Thereafter, the increasing weight of the litter will naturally make her slower and less agile. At this stage, swimming is good exercise, but avoid very cold water. After the sixth week, food intake should be gradually increased so that by the time her puppies are due, a bitch will be consuming 30 per cent more than her normal daily quantity. Ensure that the diet provides an adequate but not excessive amount of calcium.

Male and Female Reproductive Systems:
A bitch comes into season twice yearly, is fertile for three days during each cycle, and will be receptive to mating only during these periods. Males, however, willingly mate year round. For the female, ovulation continues throughout life and there is no menopause, although breeding in later years is risky. Pregnancy lasts for about 63 years.

Responsible Breeding:
If planning to breed from your Labrador, seek professional advice from your vet or from an experienced and reputable breeder. Ensure that the prospective parents’ physical and emotional attributes will enhance the breed. Both partners should be screened for certain inherited diseases such as progressive retinal atrophy and hip dysplasia, via an eye examination and a hip X-ray. Your vet may also advise testing for brucellosis, a canine venereal disease. Remember that Labrador litters are large, usually about eight puppies, and that you will be responsible for finding each offspring a safe home.

Preventing Pregnancy:
Neutering is the most effective and safest means of preventing pregnancy. The female, because she carries the young, is the usual candidate. Both the ovaries and the uterus are removed, followed by a week’s rest. The procedure for males involves simple surgery on the scrotum for removal of the testicles.

Labrador - Minor Injury and Illness

Every owner should know how to administer medicines and other basic treatment to their dog in the event of accident or illness. Injuries to ears and paws, from fights or sharp objects, are not uncommon, and may require prompt bandaging and precautionary restraint before a vet is called.
Applying an Emergency Bandage to the Ear:
1. While an assistant soothes and steadies your dog, apply clean, preferably non – stick, absorbent material to the wound. Take care you are not bitten through fright. Cut a section from a pair of tights and slip it over your hands.

2. With your assistant holding the absorbent pad in place, slip the tights over your dog’s head. This will hold the ear firmly, helping the blood to clot. Ensure that the windpipe receives no undue pressure.

3. If necessary, secure the tights at each end with tape to prevent your dog from removing the bandage with its paws. However, this is only a temporary cover, and your veterinarian should examine the injury.

Bandaging a Wounded Paw:
With the aid of an assistant, steady your dog. Apply a fresh, absorbent pad to the cut, wrap the pad in place with stretchy gauze, and secure the dressing with clinging stretch or adhesive bandage. Consult your vet about antibiotics or possible surgery. Change bandages daily to reduce the risk of infection.

Improvising a Muzzle:
1. Even the most loving animal is capable of accidentally biting when hurt. With an assistant holding your dog still, make a loop with any soft material such as tights, gauze, or a tie, and slip it over the muzzle.

2. With the loop in place, tighten it gently. Then bring both lengths of material down and cross them under the jaws. If your dog is confused or upset, speak to it in a relaxed, comforting tone as you proceed.

3. To complete the process, wrap the material round the back of the ears and tie the ends securely in a knot. With the emergency muzzle fastened, you can then safely give attention to specific injuries elsewhere.

Administering Medicines:
Giving a pill:
With your dog seated, open its mouth and insert the pill as far back as possible. Then Hold the jaw shut and tilt it upwards, stroking the neck to induce swallowing.

Giving liquids:
Using a syringe from your vet or a chemist, squirt the medicine into the mouth, not down the throat where it may enter the windpipe. Hold your dog’s muzzle until it swallows.

Using an Elizabethan Collar:
Your vet may provide a lampshade – shaped collar for your convalescent dog, to prevent any scratching or chewing at wounds. This collar should be left on whenever your dog is alone, but may be removed at mealtimes or during exercise on lead, when you can deter self – inflicted damage. The device is cumbersome and likely to be worn with resignation!

Labrador - Emergency First Aid

A home first – aid kit is essential for patching up minor injuries. More serious emergencies are thankfully much less common, but with an understanding of basic principles and techniques such as artificial respiration and cardiac massage, you could save your dog’s life.

First – Aid Principles and Basic Equipment:
The fundaments of human first aid also apply to dogs. Your objectives are to preserve life, prevent further injury, control damage, minimize pain and distress, promote healing, and get your safely to a veterinarian for professional care. Have a fully – stocked first – aid kit handy and use it to treat minor wounds, once you are certain there are no more serious, life – threatening problems to deal with.

How to Assess an Unconscious Dog:
Causes of Unconsciousness include choking, electrocution, and blood loss, near – drowning, poisoning, concussion, shock, fainting, smoke inhalation, diabetes, and heart failure. If you find your dog apparently unconscious, call its name to see if it responds. Pinch hard between the toes, while checking the eyes for blinking. Pull on a limb – does your dog pull back? Put your hand firmly on its chest and feel for a heartbeat. Life the lip and look at the color of the gums. If they are pink and when you squeeze the pinkness out it comes back immediately, your dog’s heart is beating. If the gums are pale or blue, cardiac massage may be required to restore circulation.

Artificial Respiration and Cardiac Massage:
Do not attempt to give artificial respiration or heart massage unless your dog is unconscious and will die without your help. If your dog has been pulled from water, suspend it by its hind legs for at least 30 seconds to drain the air passages. If it has been electrocuted, do not touch it until the electricity is turned off. If is has choked, press forcefully over the ribs to dislodge the object. Never put yourself at risk; if possible share first – aid procedures with some one else or have them telephone nearest veterinarian and arrange transport.

1. Place your dog on its side, ideally with its head slightly lower than the rest of its body – elevation of the hindquarters sends more blood to the brain. Clear the airway by straightening the neck, pulling the tongue fully forwards, and sweeping the mouth with two fingers to remove any excess saliva or obstructions. Also ensure that the nose is not clogged with mucus or debris. If you cannot hear the heart, start cardiac massage at once.

2. Close the mouth, hold the muzzle with both hands, and place your mouth around the nose. Blow in until you see the chest expand, and then let the lungs naturally deflate. Repeat this 10 – 20 times per minute, checking the pulse every 10 seconds to make sure the heart is beating.

3. If the heart has stopped, begin cardiac massage immediately. Place the heel of one hand on the left side of the chest just behind the elbows, then the hell of your other hand on top. Press vigorously down and forwards, pumping 80 – 100 times per minute. Alternate 20 – 25 cardiac massages with 10 seconds of mouth – to – nose respiration until the heart beats, restoring color to the gums. Continue resuscitation until breathing starts. A very fat Labrador should be laid on its back and pressed on the chest for cardiac massage.

Always look for Shock:
Shock is a potentially life – endangering condition which occurs when the body’s circulation fails. It can be caused by vomiting, diarrhea, poisons, animal bites, a twisted stomach, bleeding, and may other illness or accidents, and onset may not be apparent for several hours. The signs include pale or blue gums, rapid breathing, a faint or quickened pulse, cold extremities, and general weakness. Treating shock takes precedence over other injuries, including fractures. Your priorities are to control any bleeding, maintain body heat, and support vital functions. Unless shock is the result of heatstroke. Wrap your dog loosely in a warm blanket, elevate its hindquarters, stabilize breathing an the heart if necessary using mouth – to – nose resuscitation and cardiac massage, and seek urgent medical advice.

Labrador - Breed Specific Problems

Selective breeding for desirable traits inevitably also concentrates potentially harmful genes. Like all other breeds, the Labrador has its own variety of inherited medical problems. The primary clinical conditions involve the joints, eyes, and brain, with obesity often an additional problem.

Hip Dysplasia:
Although partly hereditary, this condition can also be related to excessive weight or over – vigorous exercise during puppyhood. Signs of hip dysplasia include high muscle wasting and discomfort on rising. In severe cases, dogs “bunny hop” to diminish pain. Veterinary associations and kennel clubs have developed useful hip – testing schemes.

Normal hips the hip is a basic ball – and – socket joint. In healthy hips like these, the head of the femur (ball) sits comfortably and firmly in the acetabulum (socket) of the hip bone.

Hereditary Eyes Diseases:
Labrador Retrievers can suffer from a variety of inherited eye ailments. Breeding stock should have their eyes routinely examined for detached retinas, cataracts, and any sign of diseases such as entropion, retinal dysplasia, and progressive retinal atrophy – a later – life blindness in which the retina “dies”. It will soon be possible through DNA blood “fingerprinting” (as it already is with Irish Setters) to detect individual carriers of the genes that cause hereditary eye disorders.
Clouding of the lenses this dog has cataracts, with obvious loss of transparency of the crystalline lens in each eye. The condition is painless, but clarity of vision is severely impaired.

Importance of Health Screening:
All conscientious breeders participate in accredited screening programmes, often jointly run by kennel clubs and veterinary associations, and will be able to provide relevant certificates stating that a dog is clear of inherited eye disorders, and giving a comparative rating for any hip abnormalities. In a number of countries, anatomical, behavioral, and hereditary factor surveys are carried out by breed clubs, with dogs classified as “recommended for breeding”, “suitable for breeding”, or “not suitable”.

Other Disorders Common in Labradors:
Although Labradors generally have robust constitutions and sound physiques, they are nevertheless susceptible to certain medical conditions. Some are inherited and cannot be prevented, but treatment may help to alleviate symptoms. Always keep your dog at a healthy weight; with their stocky build and hearty appetite, Labradors can easily become obese.
Osteochondorsis the increasingly diagnosed disease, in which areas of joint cartilage “die”, is particularly prevalent in the larger breeds, and usually first affects puppies between four and eight months old. It may occur in any joint, but Labradors suffer most frequently in the elbows, showing pain – induced lameness, leading to arthritis in later life. Implicated causal factors are genetic make – up, hormone imbalance, diet, exercise, and growth rate. Treatment for the condition, identified by X-ray, often involves surgery.

Deafness and Epilepsy deafness is not uncommon in elderly Labradors, as nerve transmission to the brain gradually deteriorates. Epilepsy, another inherited condition, although far rarer, is distressing for both you and your dog, and requires veterinary attention.

“Depraved” Appetite Labradors love food, and can sometimes develop a “depraved” appetite, trademarked by the eating of Faeces. This distasteful habit may be caused by an enzyme deficiency. If so, supplement the diet with papain – rich pineapple, papaya, pumpkin, or vegetable marrow.

Laryngeal Paralysis incidence of this old – age illness is higher in Labradors than in all other breeds combined. Its symptoms are very obvious: loud, distressed breathing, coughing, and a muted bark. It is caused by the larynx (voice box) collapsing over the windpipe, reducing air supply; the only cure is by surgical correction.

Labrador - Foreseeing Dangers

Our daily surroundings can present many dangers for a dog. Be mindful of your Labrador’s natural inclinations, and supervise it closely – especially outdoors – to prevent mishaps. Never leave your dog alone in situations where it may imperil itself or others, and be prepared to avert and react to trouble.

Ensuring Safety with your lively Labrador:
Dealing with Boisterous Behavior an ebullient Labrador can unwittingly injure someone or cause property damage. If your dog accidentally or intentionally bites, both you and your pet may face legal redress. Good training is a social duty as well as sound prevention, but also obtains insurance for your dog’s activities.

Potential Hazards in Water Labradors are marvelous swimmers, but treacherous or icy waters should still be avoided. Be wary of water – borne diseases such as leptospirosis, spread by infected rat, urine, and blue – green algae bloom, which can cause itchy skin, diarrhea, and even death. Ensure that your dog will be able to safely get in, and out of, any body of water.
Controlling an Inquisitive Nature monitors your Labrador carefully when of the lead. Impetuous, curious dogs are more prone to injury, and exploratory wanders or investigative digging can result in bites from wild animals, stings, and irritations caused by plants or insects. Keep your dog away from known dangers, and carry a first aid kit to treat minor cuts and lacerations. Always use a lead to maintain firm control whenever your dog or others may be at risk.

Emergency Treatment with any case of poisoning, look for signs of shock, and give essential first aid as required. Contact your vet or local poison – control centre for specific advice, and begin home treatment as quickly as possible, preferably under professional guidance by telephone.
Store all Toxins Securely:
Labrador Retrievers, especially when young, are inveterate chewers. Keep all household, gardens, and swimming – pool chemicals stored safely out of reach, and never give your dog an empty container as a toy, or it will regard all similar objects as play items – with potentially tragic results.

Protection from Electrical Hazards:
Puppies naturally gnaw anything, and particularly appealing. Train your dog from an early age not to tamper with electrical apparatus, and reduce the risk of burns or electrocution by placing electrical cords out of reach or spraying them with bitter – tasting aerosol. Switch off sockets when not in use and, if possible, add protective covers. If your Labrador does chew through a live cable, do not risk your own life. Turn off the main electricity supply before administering first aid.

Labrador - Maintaing The Coat

With their short, dense coats, Labradors are relatively simple to groom and rarely need their hair trimmed. Nevertheless, they moult extensively and demand some attention at least weekly. The Labrador is also a first – class muck – roller, so regular bathing will prove inevitable.

Routine Grooming:
Thorough Brushing command your dog to sit or stand. A bristle brush will remove dead hair and debris, as well as massage the skin. If using a double – surfaced brush, take care with the pin side, which can be harsh on delicate skin if applied too vigorously.

Stripping the under coat use a slicker brush during heavy moults to clear the large to clear the large quantities of woolly, insulating undercoat. Always check for sign of parasite or other skin irritations.

Shining the coat complete the grooming routine by smoothing the coat with clean, dry chamois leather. This wipes any loose flakes of skin from the surface and creates a glossy sheen. Let your dog know that grooming is finished by giving the release command “OK”, then reward its obedience with verbal praise.

Combing out dead hair a comb is needed only in cold weather, when Labradors have a thick double coat. Concentrate on the hips, thighs and tail, where dead hair accumulates. Comb thoroughly, but avoid scratching the skin.

Moulting Care:
During your Labrador’s twice – yearly moults, it is advisable to groom at least twice a week. If neglected, elderly dogs in particular can develop Matts of moulted hair over the hips and at the base of the tail.

Establish Grooming as a Basic Ritual:
In canine terms, grooming represents an act of dominance, taking most dogs back to puppyhood, when they were dependent on their mothers to keep them clean. Labrador’s usually strong – willed individuals, especially males, may resent it. To avoid such problems, introduce grooming routines as soon as your acquire your dog. It will quickly learn to accept your action as a sign of leadership, and should comply contentedly.

Bathing Your Dog:
1. Although Labradors generally loves to get wet, they are less happy being washed. Keep a firm grip on your dog (or enlist a helper) and use a non – slip mat in the bath for safety. Lather thoroughly with dog baby shampoo and tepid to warm water. Bathe outdoors with a garden hose only in hot weather.

2. After washing, rinse off all the shampoo, removing any residual deposits from under the legs and tail. Avoid getting shampoo near the eyes or water in the ears. Continually talk to your dog in a firm but gentle tone while bathing.

3. After rinsing, squeeze excess water from the coat and wrap your dog in a towel. Let it shake, then vigorously rub its coat dry or use a hairdryer set to warm, not hot. A typical Labrador will now be eager to roll around to get rid of artificial shampoo odour. It might smell fresh to you, but your dog still prefers the aroma of dead fish!

Labrador - Finding The Right Dog

 

Having decided that you want to acquire a Labrador, be selective in your search. Do not act impulsively; seek professional guidance from your local vet or dog training club, and choose carefully according to this advice and your lifestyle. Any purchase should incorporate a veterinary examination.

Advice on Where to Buy and What to Look For:
Consult a veterinarian vets and their staff can provide unbiased information on what too look for in healthy Labrador Retriever. They are usually aware of any prevalent medical problems or behavioral idiosyncrasies, and their advice is always free of charge.

Inquire at local dog training clubs contact a local dog club for guidance on how to find a trainable Labrador. Trainers can often also recommend breeders who produce dog specifically for field work or showing. While gender and coat color partly determine a dog’s temperament, so do breeding lines.

Suitable for Your Lifestyle:
Select a dog that fits into your daily routine both now and as you foresee it in years to come. Labradors are large, energetic dogs, needing lots of exercise and mental stimulation. If you are new to the breed, talk to other owners about their dogs and try to spend some time with one. If you have a family, all decisions on buying a dog should be made together.

Deciding On a Puppy or an Adult Dog:
Buying a pure - bred puppy although puppies are undoubtedly appealing, they are also extremely lively and demand plenty of attention; be prepared! Reputable breeders are the best source for Labrador Puppies. Visit several litters before making your choice, and not the physique and temperament of the mother and, if possible, the father too. Resist the temptation to buy the first puppy that takes your fancy.

Animals Rescue Centers:
Animal shelters always have dogs needing good homes. A rescued Labrador is more likely to have behavior problems, notably destructive activity when left alone. Yet, “recycled” dogs can settle in and make loyal, affectionate companions. An adult rescued dog may be a good option if you want to avoid the bother of house training a puppy, and are willing to cope with any unexpected personality quirks.

Health Checks for Your New Dog:
Make any purchase conditional upon your vet’s confirmation that the dog is healthy, with no sign of infectious disease, malnutrition, or parasites. Breeders should provide documents verifying that a puppy’s parents are free from a variety of hereditary disorders. By law, if a puppy is not healthy at purchase, you are entitled to a refund or a replacement. It is wise to place a similar condition on the purchase of an adult dog regardless of the source.
Avoid Puppy Mills:
Whenever possible, buy your dog directly from a reputable breeder, either professional or amateur. Avid puppy farms or mills, as they often provide inhumane environments for mothers are give little attention to the puppies’ health. Newspaper advertisements can sometimes be fronts for mills; be suspicious if when visiting a private home you cannot sett the litter’s mother. Be wary also of pet shops; they can be fertile environments for a variety of infectious diseases, and may supply you with an unhealthy specimen purchased from a puppy mill.

Labrador - Sex and Type Difference

Apart from their obvious physical differences, male and female Labradors can also vary somewhat in character. Specific “types” bred primarily for working or showing may differ too. Yet all have in common the willing nature and eminent trainability that distinguish this justly popular breed.

Physique and Temperament: The Sexes Compared
Male Labradors are typically large and more powerfully built than females, and have less delicate features. In behavior, gender-related differences are very minor, with males only slightly more dominant. Overall, both sexes are very even-tempered and highly trainable.

Gentle, Responsive Female:
Female Labradors are often considered marginally easier to train than males, and less likely to disobey their owners. They also tend to be more playful with other dogs. Neutering usually has little effect on a bitch’s personality, but can sometimes reduce an inclination towards possessiveness.

Confident Male:
Males tend to have a more willful nature than females, and therefore can be slightly more headstrong and disobedient. However, unlike numerous other breeds, male Labradors are not markedly more aggressive than females. Although they may be instinctively assertive with other male dogs, dominance is more likely to take the form of rowdiness rather than belligerence.

Gender-Specific Medical Problems:
A variety of diseases are caused or influenced by sex hormones. Unless spayed early in life, females of all breeds may suffer from breast cancer and pyometra, or womb infection. Uncastrated males sometimes develop perianal tumours, testicular cancer, or prostate disorders, with associated pain or bleeding on urination. Neutering is part of the preferred treatment for all gender-related medical conditions, but in Labradors particularly, neutering must be followed by careful diet control to prevent weight gain.

Perfect Looks:
Many Labradors are bred primarily to conform to formal show standards. The notion of an ideal specimen continues to vary somewhat over time and from country to country, since the official breed standard may be interpreted fluidly. For many years, Labradors in the USA were bred to be considerably large than the favored European size. Now these preferences have been more clearly defined in a new American standard. Whichever standard is used, dogs intended for exhibition trained from an early age in show-ring deportment.

Bred to Work:
Although all Labradors can be trained as gundogs or for working trials, requiring skills in obedience, agility, or scent trailing, some are bred specifically for such roles. They may still meet show standards, but often have lighter leaner bodies which are considered more agile in the field. Working dogs are also bred to have an exceptionally strong retrieving instinct and a keen responsiveness to training.

Selective Breeding for Special Roles:
Labradors and Golden Retrievers are the world’s most successful assistance dogs, trained to help people with disabilities. Just dogs destined for other roles are selectively bred to enhance certain desirable qualities, in recent years dogs have been bred specifically for assistance work, with the most important criteria being sound health and a calm, unflappable disposition.

Labrador - Walking to Heel

Ensure that waking with your dog is pleasure rather than endurance by teaching if from an early age to walk to heel. Labrador puppies enjoy human companionship so much that you can begin training without a lead. Then move on to lead work, gradually increasing the distance covered.

Walking to Heel without a Lead:
1. Kneel to the right of your alert, seated puppy. Holdings its collar with your left hand, speak its name and show it a favorite treat in your other hand.

2. Using the scent of the food to attract the puppy, walk in a straight line while giving the command “Heel”. Be ready to grasp the collar with your left hand if the puppy wanders. When you stop walking command “Wait”.

3. Keeping the treat low to prevent jumping, bend your knees and turn right, drawing the food round as you move. Repeat the command “Heel”. Your puppy will speed up to walk round you.

4. Left turns are more difficult. Hold the collar with your left hand and command “Steady”.
Place the treat near your dog’s mouth then move it to the left. The puppy will follow.

Heelwork with a Lead:
1. With the puppy on a long training lead and seated to your left, hold the lead and a food treat in your right hand, and pick up the slack of the lead with your left. Tell your puppy to sit.

2. Move forwards on your left foot while giving the command “Heel”. If your puppy walks too far ahead, give the lead a light jerk.

3. With the puppy beside you in the heel position, offer it the reward and say “Good dog”. Repeat “Sit” and praise it when it obeys.

4. After the dog has learned to walk to heel in a straight line, teach it to turn to the right by guiding it with the treat. If your puppy has lost interest, postpone further practice until later.

5. Once the right turn has been learned, commence left – turn training. Hold the treat in front of the puppy’s nose to slow it down while speeding up your own circling movement to the left. Keep the puppy close and command “Steady” as it follows you round.

Labrador - Introduction

Many centuries of evolution produced today’s domestic dog breeds from their common wolf ancestor, over 15,000 years ago, when our ancient relatives first created semi-permanent settlements local wolves in turn moved into the areas surrounding the encampments to scavenge for food, only the smallest and tamest of these “self-domesticated” wolves survived, and within a very short time the modified wolf-dog had emerged. The early human settlers, recognizing potential uses for these creatures, began capturing young cubs and raising them to protect their campsites and assist in hunting.

Adaptation of the breed:
By about 6000 years ago, selective breeding by humans had produced many different dog breeds with enhanced qualities for specific roles, including guarding, load-bearing, herding and hunting. More recently, only in the last 1000 years, people have amassed sufficient wealth to hunt purely for pleasure, leading to the development of the sporting dog. The Labrador Retriever is a supreme example of this most advanced branch of canines, for it performs in an unnatural way – adeptly finding wounded prey but rather than instinctively eating it, carefully bringing the game back to its waiting master.

Natural Protective Instincts:
The Labrador’s specific development, first to assist fishermen and later as a gundog, has enhanced its eagerness to serve its owner and work co-operatively with other dogs. Yet even this most gentle, sweet-tempered breed has not lost its innate canine instincts, which may be expressed through natural guarding or defence.

The Ideal Companion:
The modern Labrador Retriever was developed expressly as a sporting breed – to work to the gun, retrieving game for huntsmen, its exceptional abilities have, however, led to a variety of other roles. Labradors are among the finest scent-detecting dogs, and in the detection of drugs and explosives. The Labrador’s affable character and superb responsiveness to training have also made it an exemplary assistant for the disabled – in fact, it is the world’s most successful guide dog for the blind. But for many devotes of the breed, the Labrador Retriever’s most outstanding characteristic is its happy, affectionate nature and overwhelming dedication to its owner. It is a perfect companion for both adults and children, and its well-deserved international popularity continues to grow with each passing year.

Labrador - Coats and Colors

Labradors come in three “varieties”: yellow, black, and chocolate. Eyes are usually a warm hazel or brown with dark rims, and the nose black or dark brown, although a yellow dog’s nose may fade to pink in winter. The coat is dense and waterproof, and curiously its color can have some bearing on personality.

Yellow And Black Coats:
Mating between yellow Labradors always produce yellow offspring. Black Labradors, however, may bear either all black puppies or a mixed litter. Professional breeders usually know whether their black stock carries the potential to produce yellow. Vets and breeders generally find no differences between yellows and blacks in characteristics such as trainability, playfulness with other dogs, or enjoyment at being petted. However, yellow Labradors are considered slightly more likely to whine for attention, and to bark when anxious or to protect the home. They may also be moderately more excitable, and more destructive when left alone, although all these behavior variations are very minor.

Variations of Yellow:
Color intensity ranges from champagne cream through rich golden, to the more unusual fox-red.

Glossy black:
The black Labrador has a typically strong yet gentle face with noble features.

Chocolate Labradors:
This rich, attractive coat color is relatively rare, but becoming increasingly popular. Both yellow and black Labradors may produce chocolate-colored puppies, but the genetics are complicate. In theory, all three colors can appear in one litter – and occasionally this does happen. However, when matters are left to nature alone, just one puppy in eight is born with chocolate pigmentation. Breeders normally prefer to avoid using yellow stock to produce chocolate offspring, as these puppies sometimes have very pale skin and light eyes.

Natural-Born Swimmers:
A breed that revels in getting wet if water is available – from the smallest of puddles to a vast ocean, no matter how dirty or salty – Labradors will find it, and dive in with relish. The breed’s powerful muscular legs, well proportioned chest, and webbed toes are perfectly designed for speed and endurance when swimming.

Dense, Waterproof Undercoat:
The Labrador Retriever has inherited a thick, wooly undercoat from its Canadian ancestors, bred for work in the cold waters of Newfoundland. This specially-adapted layers gives superb, waterproof insulation, although Labradors can still suffer from hypothermia in severe conditions.

Labrador - Constructive Play

Dogs need mental stimulation as well as physical exercise. Create activities that utilize the Labrador’s unique abilities; games involving retrieving will be particularly enjoyable for your dog. Use playtime to reinforce training, to strengthen your bond as owner, and simply to have fun.

Challenging Games:
Simple rehearsed scenarios such as supplying a handkerchief on the command of a “sneeze” are an enjoyable way of developing your dog’s ability to recognize a given cue and react accordingly. This type of game exploits the Labrador’s love of both retrieving and social interaction.
Fetching Useful Items:
Labradors instinctively retrieve, and will happily bring almost anything to you. Train your dog to fetch your slippers by throwing one a short distance and saying “fetch”, followed by “come”. Use a lead first to ensure response to the command.

Retrieving on Demand:
Once your dog understands the concept of fetching, you can train it to find any item. It must, however, be taught to understand exactly what you want it to bring back. Do not expect your Labrador to fetch something it has not been specifically trained to retrieve.
Enjoyable Learned Routines:
Physical games are the most exciting for your dog, but even “playing dead” can be satisfying when rewarded set piece is an extension of “down” command, with your dog learning to lie still until you release it by saying “ok”

Having Fun with Moving Objects:
Labradors are moderately good soccer players, although they usually lack the desire to win that some terriers have! Giving verbal encouragement, teach your dog to roll a ball with its nose. Avoid food rewards as these are too potent a distraction from the game.

Toys Belong to You:
When you finish playing, make a point of putting away all toys. This re-establishes that you are in charge, and playtime is available only through you. It also makes toys more desirable to your dog and therefore more useful to you as a control tool. Always give praise control tool. Always give praise for relinquishing toys, or exchange them for a food reward.

Ending Playing with Rewards and Praise:
Constructive games keep your dog’s mind active and alert. Adequate mental as well as physical exercise can help prevent destructiveness or anxiety, which are often merely symptoms of boredom. It is easy to incorporate training into play by continually reinforcing basic obedience commands such as “Sit”, “Stay”, “Come” and “Down”, and by rewarding good behavior. Always finish games on a positive note, with food treats, stroking, encouraging words, so that your Labrador looks forward to future activities. Just as with children. If learning is fun dogs will want to learn more.

Labrador - First Routines

A puppy’s early experiences set patterns for life. Train your young Labrador from its first days with you to accept being left alone, to wait patiently in its own crate while you are busy, and to learn about permitted behavior. Most importantly, train it to enjoy coming to you when called.

Accepting Being Left Alone:
No matter how much you enjoy being with your new puppy, there will be times when you must leave it on its own. Train your Labrador to accept that this is part of its routine by confining it to its crate with an interesting reward, such as a hollow toy filled with a little peanut butter. Then quietly walk away, signaling “wait”. Gradually accustom your dog to being left alone for extended periods.

Stop Over – Aggressive Play:
If one puppy hurts other during rough play, the wounded puppy will usually bite back or retire from the game. Either way, the aggressive dog learns a lesson. Do the same with your puppy. If he behaves unacceptable, say “No!” and stop play for a minute. If necessary, you may grab the scruff of the neck as a firm but painless admonition.

Problem of Training Several Puppies:
Any training requires the undivided attention of both you and your dog. If you have two or more puppies, train just one at a time, keeping the others out of sight and beyond hearing distance. Otherwise, they may actually learn not to respond to your commands since their obedience is not being reinforced. Training sessions with individual puppies should only last for a maximum of 10 minutes.

Coming to You on Command:
1. For safety and responsible control, your puppy must learn always to come to you on command; this is central to all obedience. Having trained your dog to accept a collar and lead, put these on the dog and kneel a short distance away, with the lead tucked securely under one knee. Hold a chewable or attractively scented toy as a reward; a food treat is less clearly visible but may prove too exciting for many Labradors.

2. Call your puppy’s name in a clear, friendly tone to attract its attention. When it turns its head towards you, give the command “Come” and wave the toy as an enticement. Keep the lead slack; do not reel in your puppy but encourage it to come willingly for the reward.

3. Welcome your puppy with open arms. Out of curiosity, it should walk towards you, as it moves, say “Good dog” in an enthusiastic voice. When the puppy reaches you, reward it with the toy. Never call your puppy to discipline it, or it will then associate returning to you with being reprimanded. Develop a happy bond so your dog comes because it wants to be with you.

Labrador - Introducing Outdoors

LABRADOR – INTRODUCING OUTDOORS
All puppies should experience the outdoors as soon as possible. Provide essential vaccinations and identifications, and accustom your young Labrador to a collar and lead. Ask friends to help you create situations in which the puppy can meet new people and other dogs in controlled circumstances.

Introduction to Collar and Lead:
1. Collar and lead training can begin as soon as you acquire your puppy. Start by letting the dog see and smell the collar. Then, avoiding eye contact, kneel down and put the collar on, distracting with words. Reward your puppy with treats, physical contact, and praise. Actively play for a while, and then take the collar off. Your puppy will quickly learn to associate the collar with rewards, and should accept it without reluctance.

2. Once your puppy is content wearing its collar, kneel in front and attach a lead. Keeping the lead slack, entice your dog to one side with a toy or food reward. When it moves towards the reward. When it moves towards the reward, apply light tension to the lead. Allow the puppy to have the toy or treat, and give it copious praise.

Meeting Strangers:
Arrange for canine-loving friend to meet you and your puppy outdoors. Ask your friend to kneel down to greet the puppy, as this will help curb its inclination to jump up. Also discourage direct eye contact, which can provoke an unduly excited response – not uncommon in very young dogs. Finally, provide your friend with your puppy’s favorite treat to give as a reward for relatively calm behavior.

Essential Puppy Inoculation:
Your veterinarian will vaccinate your new puppy against a range of infectious disease, and for additional protection may also advise avoidance of unfamiliar dogs for a few weeks. Contact with known healthy dogs should continue, however, to ensure that your puppy becomes properly socialized.

Encountering Other Dogs:
Ask a friend with a relaxed dog to meet you on a walk. Have your friend instruct her dog to sit as you approach, and reward your puppy’s calm response with treats and praise. Through routine meetings, your puppy learns that there is no need to jump on anything that reminds it of its mother. Regular interaction with puppies of a similar age will also help in developing important social skills.

Discourage Jumping Up:
Labrador’s love life and are exhilarated by the outdoors. In their exuberance many, if not most, tend to jump up onto people by way of greeting. Do not encourage this annoying habit yourself by slapping your thighs when calling your dog, and ask others to get down to puppy level during meetings to dissuade jumping up.

Labrador - Outside The Home

Whether in your own garden or further afield, your Labrador retriever must be kept under secure control both for its own protection and the safety of others. It is important to provide a healthy, hazard – free environment for your pet, and to observe social obligations conscientiously.

Shelter and Exercise:
Comfortable outdoor kennel if you plan to house your dog in a kennel, introduce it from an early age. The kennel should be chew – proof and well – insulated. Make it a cosy sanctuary, but do not keep your dog kenneled alone for long periods.

Clean, spacious run a hygienic run attached to the kennel is ideal for several dogs, allowing fresh air and limited exercise. However, Labradors have large reserves of energy and will still need regular physical activity outside their runs.

Control Outdoors:
Half – check collar a half-check collar is often useful. Fit the collar so the soft webbing lies round your dog’s throat, while the chain links sit at the back of its neck. A tug on the lead will tighten the collar without causing discomfort.

Head Halter a head halter can help with high-spirited Labradors. Ensure that it fits comfortably over the muzzle. If your dog lunges, its momentum will gently tighten the halter, pulling the head down and the jaws shut.

Muzzle apply a muzzle either to obey local laws or to prevent your dog from scavenging. Use a basket variety in the correct size and properly adjusted to permit panting and barking. Never leave your muzzled dog unattended for extended lengths of time.

Using a Full Check Chain:
1. To put on a check chain correctly, hold it open in a circle, and then slip it round your dog’s neck.
2. The chain should tighten only when the lead is pulled. If put on backwards, or if the dog is not to your left, the chain will not loosen after tension is eased.

Always Give Prompt Discipline:
Labrador Retrievers are lively, inquisitive dogs that, left unsupervised, may investigate further than you would like. If your dog has engaged in destructive digging, for example, reprimand it at once so that it understands why you are displeased. Enforce a lie down and stop all play” if you are away from home, return immediately. Young male Labradors in particular may need obedience reinforced when outdoors.

Planning a Safe and Secure Garden:
The greatest hazard presented by your garden is the risk of escape. Check that all fencing is sturdy, gate latches secure, and that hedges have no gaps. Install wire mesh where necessary. Keep all garden chemicals safely locked away, and if you have outdoor lighting, ensure that no cable are exposed and may be chewed. To prevent damage to your lawn, train your dog to use a specific site as its toilet. Be certain to store all waste and any horticultural tools securely out of reach, and do not plant material that may be poisonous to dogs. Always watch your Labrador carefully near a lit barbecue so it does not lick hot implements, and cover ornamental ponds to avoid accidents.

Labrador - Travel and Boarding

With proper care, your Labrador should happily accept both routine travel and regular holidays. Introduce care journeys as early as possible, and make trips safe and enjoyable. Closely monitor your dog when in new surroundings, and ensure that it will be secure and comfortable if left with others while you are away.

Holidays With or Without Your Dog:
Preparing for a trip Labradors are good travelers and willingly go almost anywhere. On trips, take your dog’s food and water bowls, collar, lead, and bedding, and add holiday contact addresses or telephone numbers to its name tag. At your destination, find a local veterinarian who can deal with any emergencies.

Home away from home ask your vet’s advice about kenneling your dog will be exercised or played with each day, and satisfy yourself that the staff are responsible. Dogs that are introduced to kennels early in life take revisits in their stride. Before kenneling, ensure that your dog’s health inoculations are up to date. Dog – sitting services are another alternative again, your vet can offer guidance.

Be Considerate of Others:
Local dog – control regulations vary; wherever you are, observe and relevant notices. Never exercise your Labrador in restricted areas, and obey laws specifying that dogs must be kept under control or on leads, especially in parks and on beaches. Always clean up after your dog. Carry a supply of plastic bags, or use a “poop scoop”, and deposit mess in special waste bins if available. Control your dog and do not let it be a nuisance to others.

Safe Traveling by Car:
Canine Seatbelt your Labrador risks the same injuries that you do in a car accident. A dog can travel safely on the rear seat of a car if secured with a special canine seatbelt which, like a child’s harness, attaches to the standard seatbelt anchors. With this device, the dog is kept reassuringly in place and under control, so that it cannot distract the driver.

Added security in crate professional dog handles prefer to transport their dogs in crates. These are roomy and secure, and help keep your car free from dog hair or chewing damage. Introduce your Labrador to its crate during puppyhood, as its regular bed and playpen in the home. Then when the crate is used as transport, your dog will be inclined to relax and enjoy the journey. If it becomes over – excited, install sunblind’s as screening. On long tips, stop every few hours to allow your dog to exercise, drink, and relieve itself.

Protective rear grille if your dog is to be transported in the back of an estate car, ensure that it has comfortable bedding. Install a purpose-made dog grille to deter your Labrador from jumping into the rear seat. Fit the grille securely so that in the vent of a sudden stop it will act as a guard, preventing your dog from hurtlings forwards.

Labrador - The Ideal Choice

The amiable Labrador Retriever’s reputation as a family dog is fully, justified, but owners of this affectionate and energetic breed must be prepared to cope with their Labrador’s lively, sometimes over-exuberant nature, as well as accommodate in great need for outdoor activity and vigorous exercise.

Integral part of the family:
A dog can provide great affection, but you must be prepared to care for your pet for at least the next 13 years. Like a child, it depends on you for its health and well-being. Consider not only the cost of food and veterinary attention, but also the time you must commit as an owner.

A Happy and Boisterous Breed:
A bounding “hello” it is possible to be literally bowled over by a typical welcome from an enthusiastic Labrador. This warm, friendly nature is part of the breed’s appeal, but your dog’s eager spirit and very tactile zest for life can actually be a dangerous nuisance if uncontrolled.
Tail-Wagging Mayhem in their exuberance, Labradors tend to be a little clumsy, this may at first be endearing, but can quickly become exasperating. The Labrador’s thick, muscular tail is at a perfect height to sweep low table surfaces clean. Contemplate a vivacious Labrador only if you are prepared for occasional accident!

Bounding With Energy:
Although a popular pet, Labradors were originally bred to work outdoors, and thrive on physical and mental activity. Consider acquiring this energetic and responsive breed only if you can provide it with the space, exercise and attention it needs.

Prepare For Hair!
Although its coat is relatively short, the Labrador’s hair is quite harsh, and when shed has a tendency to stick into materials. This can make it quite difficult to remove from clothing, upholstery, and carpets. Therefore, a Labrador is perhaps not the perfect type of dog for the exceptionally house-proud. Dogs have live outdoors in kennels moult twice yearly, but those kept in centrally heated environments often shed hair all year round. If you still want a Labrador, it is worth considering the color of your home furnishings and even your favorite clothes before finally deciding whether a yellow, chocolate, or black dog is best for you.

An Affable, Obedient Companion:
With its willing, sociable character and even disposition, the Labrador has all the makings of an ideal dog. Yet these qualities must be nurtured, and it is only through dedicated training that even the most sweet-natured dog becomes a truly rewarding companion. From the moment you become an owner. You will need to invest time, introducing your Labrador to new situations and always teaching good conduct. A well-mannered dog is a pleasure both for you and others.

Labrador - Good Control

The Labrador Retriever is the world’s most popular family dog, but even a Labrador can develop unacceptable behavior. Some problems are rooted in natural instincts, while other may arise from inadequate attention. Most difficulties can be overcome through positive control.
Resisting Temptation:
Labradors will grab any chance of a snack. Prevent begging by never giving food while you are eating. Relenting occasionally will strongly reinforce this habit. If your dog begs, command it to lie down, and then look away.

Happily Occupied Alone:
Labradors tend to dislike being left alone, and separation anxiety or boredom can result in destructive behavior. Always leave and return without a fuss and exercise and feed your dog before you go out, to encourage rest. Provide a favorite toy for quiet entertainment.

Making New Canine Friends:
Most Labradors enjoy meeting other dogs. Females are rarely hostile, but may be slightly apprehensive. Socialize your pet through arranged meetings with dogs that are well controlled. Keep both dogs on a lead for the initial introduction. After they have sniffed each other acquainted, allow play if circumstances permit.

Dealing with a Willful Dog:
Willfulness can take many forms. Labradors may be territorial, fiercely protecting their homes and possessions. Some males are aggressive only towards fellow males, while others look for any opportunity to dominate and hence move up the pecking order towards leadership of the pack. With all aggressive antagonism your dog is showing before tackling the problem. In virtually all circumstances, you must firmly establish your own position of respect.

Deterrents for Chewing:
Bored Labradors are diligent chewers, but usually indulge in this when you are not around. Be creative, and plan for discipline to take place in your absence by spraying an article that is likely to be chewed with a safe but bitter – tasting aerosol. Trainers call this aversion therapy; it is highly effective because the dog teaches itself.

Accepting New Situations:
Labradors are generally curious about strange or unusual situations, but may react nervously to common yet unexpected objects such as baby strollers, umbrellas, or children’s toy like skateboards. If your dog is alarmed by a new sight or sound re-present the stimulus from a distance that does not provoke distress and reward composure. Over time, reduce the distance, always rewarding calm acceptance.

Learning Not to Lunge:
The typical Labrador is enthusiastic, particularly about the outdoors, and may pull on its lead with excitement. If this occurs, return to basic training. Reinforce the command “Sit” and “Down”, then retrain walking to heel, both on and off the lead. I your dog is particularly strong – willed, consider using a head halter.

Labrador - Common Problems

All dogs are prone to internal and external parasites, although serious gastrointestinal conditions are rare in this inveterate scavenger. Labradors lopped ears, however, can lead to regular infections, while their love of chewing causes more tooth fractures than seen in smaller breeds.

Typical Canine Complaints:
With any breed, many health problems can be prevented. Routinely inspect your dog’s skin, ears and teeth, and keep all vaccinations up to date. If heartworm is a threat in your area, provide appropriate medication as directed.

Ears disorders air does not circulate as freely in the Labrador’s lopped ear as it does in erect ears such as those of the German shepherd. Humidity in ear canal increases the incidence of uncomfortable infection; therefore examine the ears regularly for wax, odour, discharge, or inflammation.

Tooth chips and fractures Labradors enjoy chewing sticks, bones – even stones. Unfortunately, their powerful jaws often cause the teeth to chip or even fracture, making eating painful. Gnawing or fetching hard, rough objects may be good fun for your dog, but to avoid dental damage or mouth lacerations and punctures, try discouraging unsuitable play items.
Intestinal parasite intestinal worms and other internal parasites may cause weight loss, vomiting, or diarrhea with or without blood and mucus. A dull coat, bloated abdomen, or chronic dragging of the hindquarters can indicate worms. Consult your vet on effective worm prevention.
Joint disease joints are vulnerable if a young dog carries too much weight during its growth phase. Hips, knees, hock, and ankles can become inflamed, leading to painful arthritis. Prevent this with routine exercise and a healthy diet.

Painful strains your Labradors muscles, tendons, and ligaments are designed to support an active dog at optimum weight. Obesity often leads to injuries, as can excessively vigorous exercise in normally sedentary dogs. Torn knee ligaments is a serious injury most commonly found in older, overweight Labradors. Unfortunately, it’s a complex condition requiring surgery.

Skin Parasites:
Labradors, particularly working ones, contract fleas, ticks, lice, and mites from other dogs and wildlife. Always check your dog’s coat thoroughly when returning from the countryside.
Flea infestation this common parasite injects saliva when it bites, causing skin irritation and scratching. Use flea – control methods recommended by your vet.

Tick – Borne Disease ticks, carried by sheep and deer, may transmit infectious disease. Visible to the eye, they can be killed with a dab of alcohol and removed with a quick twist.

Obvious Signs of Discomfort:
Persistent licking all dogs lick to groom themselves, but Labradors in Particular may do so obsessively, causing skin inflammation and hair loss. Called “lick granuloma”, this exaggerated grooming disorder often responds well to anti – anxiety drugs.

Scratching dogs often scratch because of parasites, but allergies or injuries can be additional causes. Always have any irritation checked by your vet, who will prescribe suitable treatment, which may include anti – inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, medicated shampoos, dietary changes, and varied grooming.

Labrador - Basic Health

Your Labrador depends on you for its good health. Since it cannot tell you that something is wrong, you must observe how your dog moves and behaves; any changes in activity or regular habits may be warnings signs of problems. Arrange annual check – ups, and always use your vet as a source of advice.

Easy, Graceful Movement:
Healthy dogs walk, trot, and run freely and effortlessly. A Labrador should move with fluidity and ease, its legs strong, straight and true. A ponderous gait can be caused by excess weight, while difficulties lying down or getting up may indicate joint problems – not uncommon, especially in older dogs. Limping is a sign that one leg in particular hurts, and head bobbing while walking usually also means that a dog is in pain. Watch your dog in its daily activities and be alert to any discomfort or loss of mobility.

Sound Appetite and Eating Habits:
Eating and toilet routines adopted during puppyhood are normally maintained throughout life. Even slight changes can be a sign of ill health, and should be referred to your vet. A reduced appetite is very uncommon in Labradors, and although it can simply indicate boredom, it may also signal illness. Asking for food but not eating it can mean tooth pain. So too can sloppy eating – with food being dropped, then picked up and eaten. Occasionally, Labradors will “eat” inedible items such as pebbles or soil. This can be learned behavior, but may reflect a digestive disorder or mineral deficiency. A heightened appetite without weight gain can indicate a thyroid problem. Increased thirst is always important and may be a sign of infection or conditions such as diabetes and liver or kidney disease.

Active and Alert?
Canines are creatures of habit. If your dog does not get up when it usually does, moves slower, or is reluctant to play, it could be ill. However, because Labradors are stoic and relish human companionship, they will often try to behave normally to please their owner, even when unwell. Observe your dog closely; if its actions seem even slightly strange, consult your veterinarian for advice.

Caring for the Older Dog:
Do not expect your dog to remain puppy – like forever. With age, it will slow down and may become hard of hearing, even irritable at times. Be patient with its behavior, and gentle in your handling. Try to create less physically demanding activities; elderly dogs still enjoy playing, but are less agile and energetic. Given as part of the daily diet, a tennis ball cut with a hole and filled with dry food offers excellent mental stimulation to help keep your Labrador young at heart.

Regular Health Checks:
Dogs that are vaccinated and have annul health check – ups tend to live longer than those that do not. Many conditions, such as splenic tumours, are not outwardly apparent, but may be diagnosed upon close physical examination. Always inform your vet of any observed deviations in behavior; problems are easiest to treat if detected early. Later in your Labrador’s life, regular twice – yearly clinic visits may be recommended.

Making Visits to the Vet Fun:
Introduce your Labrador to the veterinary clinic before it needs any treatment, so that it can have an investigative sniff and explore the premises. Ask your vet to give your dog a food treats while it is there, to make the next visit more appealing. If your vet does not supply treats, take some yourself and offer them when your dog is inoculated; this will provide suitable distraction from the unpleasant. Repeat trips can be made less of a hardship for you, too by taking out insurance cover on your pet’s health. This will ensure that you can benefit from the most sophisticated diagnostics and treatments.

Labrador - Healthy Eating

A nutritious diet and sound eating habits are essential to good health. Provide the right foods in the correct quantity for your dog’s needs, and plenty of fresh water to prevent dehydration. Since most Labradors love to eat, avert begging or obesity be feeding at set times.

Dietary Needs for All Ages:
Growing puppy puppies need plenty of nutrients for healthy growth. Up to 12 weeks of age, feed your puppy four times daily. Reduce this to three meals until it is six months old, then provide two meals a day through to the first year.

Mature adult the dietary requirements of an adult dog vary enormously, depending upon its health, activiety levels, and temperament. Feed twice daily to appease your Labrador’s stomach, but refer any obvious weight gain to your vet.

Elderly Labrador older, as well as neutered, dogs have lower energy demands and should be fed smaller portions or less calorie – rich foods. Protein intake may be reduced to help prevent obesity, which places undue strain on the hind legs and organs such as the kidneys.
Feeding Requirements these figures represent an approximate guide only. Remember that each dog has its own specific nutritional needs, and that different brands of food vary in calories. Always provide a well – balanced diet to meet your dog’s daily energy requirements. If you are uncertain of what is best for your Labrador, seek detailed professional advice.

Champion Scanvengers:
The Labrador “radar” for food is quite uncanny. Scavenging can become a habit if rewarded with success; prevent this by securing all rubbish and keeping temperting items out of swallow inedible or damaging objects; therefore teach it from an early age to drop articles on command. Control chronic scavenging with either a long training lead or a muzzle.

Controlling an Unsavoury Appetite:
Labradors have a reather unrefined palate, and may be attracted to the most repugnant refuse. Outdoors, they will quickly sniff out animal droppings, and regard them as dessert! This is natural behavior and horse, rabbit, or deer feces can actually be nourishing for dogs. Eating canine droppings, however, may cause intestinal ailments. Tell your dog “No”, and make it drop any excitement it picks up. A spice – treated stool is also a good deterrent.

Who is The Boss?

Your dog may be completely at home in your comfortable world, but not so many centuries ago, her ancestors probably belonged to a pack of wild, wooly canines living in the forest or out on the plains. From that world, she has inherited behaviors, such as submissive urination and rolling over belly up on the ground that she still displays. These relate to her establishing her place in the pack pecking order, and to generally understanding and getting along in a world where the going was usually tough.

Dogs need a social structure with a leader and a clear pecking order. Every dog will act either a submissive or dominant in relation to another dog or human. “Dogs can also be submissive around one person or dog and dominant around another,” says Mary Burch, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist in Tallahassee, Florida, and author of volunteering with your pet and the Border collie. For example, your dog may obey your every command but choose to ignore those that are given by your teenage child.

Contented Followers:
Although the same dog is perfectly capable of being dominant in one situation and submissive in another, most dogs are born followers, says John Loomis, owner – instructor of Alibi obedience and agility training school in Jacksonville, Arkansas. They don’t really want to be boss. In fact, they don’t really want to be boss. In fact, they are usually quite content to please their human family so that they can always get heaps of positive attention.

“While extremely submissive behavior involves shrinking and contracting, most well behaved pets are submissive to some degree, although not to the extent such postures show,” says Loomis. Your happy, submissive dog may follow you from room to room, stay fairly close to you when turned loose, and dote on your children. But if she’s well socialized and has been consistently complimented during training, she’ll also be brave if your family is threatened, provided being protective is part of her nature.

Submissive Urination:
If your dog greets you happily but with a hint of shyness, while squatting and dribbling several drops of urine, don’t assume that you have a housebreaking problem. “What you have is an anxiety problem.” Explains Loomis, and it’s known as submissive urination. Be careful not to mistake if for something else.

Submissive behavior may be inherited, or it could have been caused by corrections that were to frequent or too harsh, or even by abuse that your dog suffered before you got her.

Among wolves in the wild, such submissive urination means, “Hi boss. I hope I didn’t do anything to upset you, but if I did, I’m sorry.” Though most common during a greeting, your pup may urinate in this way when you bend over to pick her up or when you chastise her. It’s a conditioned reflex to dominant treatment and she isn’t doing it on purpose. In fact, says Loomis, she’s absolutely unaware of it.

Don’t be upset with her because that will make things worse. Instead, make homecomings low – key. Silently toss a treat for your pup as soon as you come home, and then ignore her until she approaches you. When she does, don’t reach over her head to pet her. A very submissive dog will read this as an intimidating gesture. Instead kneel down and give her a chest rub.

Better still, teach your puppy a few easy commands so she learns how to please you and earn praise, advises Loomis. Use a command such as “stand, stay” when she greets you, so she can express her devotion to you in a non-submissive posture and earn your praise.

Who’s going to be Boss?
A dominant dog may test her human family to see how high she can rise. A few actually reach the top and may aggressively demonstrate their dominance, says Dr. Burch. You can recognize them by their behavior. It’s the dog that settles into her favorite spot on the sofa and growls if anyone to shift her. She’s possessive of her toys or food bowl, and doesn’t like it if anyone comes close. She barges through doors first even steps on people to be first out to the car. Most dogs are born followers, but they need a social structure. So if no one in the human family takes the role of leader, the dog will fill the vacancy.

Demonstrating dominance isn’t always a bad thing when it’s in relation to another dog. If a friend visits with his dog, your dog will probably assert dominance. It’s her house, her toys and her territory. It’s normal for her to mount the other dog by standing over that dog’s shoulders – that’s how she lets her visitor know who is in charge, it’s not unusual for the situation to be reversed when you take her to visit the other dog.

Leaving Urine Messages:
“Urine, or scent, marking is a characteristic of wolves and dogs and is often used to declare ownership of a territory,” according to Carol Hopwood, a psychotherapist and the owner – instructor at Grizzly Dog obedience school in Whitefish, Montana. When dogs are walked, especially males that haven’t been neutered, they sniff every tree, post and fireplug, looking for the scent marking of other dogs. And when they find one, they cover or add to the scent by urinating on it, to stake their claim. That’s why a male dog leaves small spurts here and there instead of one big puddle – he keeps a little urine in reserve in case he wants to leave his signature on yet another upright object.

Not every dog that marks outdoors does it to establish territory or declare dominance. Many do it to get and leave information. “Marking is like leaving a calling card,” Hopwood says. “It’s how dogs read the newspaper.” From what they sniff, they learn who was there before them, and by leaving their mark, they become headline news for the next dog passing by.

“Although it’s usually considered a male trait, some female dogs also mark,” Explains Hopwood. “After all, they want to get in on the daily gossip, too.”

Marking Inside:
Urine markings can be a bit annoying but it’s nothing to worry about, unless it starts happening indoors. Then, it’s out of order. When male puppies stop squatting to urinate and begin lifting their legs like grown dogs, at anywhere between 6 to 12 or even 14 months of age, depending on the breed, they may decide to test their dominance by urinating on table legs, drapes or indoor walls. “These adolescent have not suddenly developed a housebreaking problem,” explains Hopwood. “Dogs that urinate indoors are probably signaling they are boss and the area marked by their scent is their territory.”

However, sometimes there may be a medical problem, such as a bladder infection, so have your dog checked by the vet right away. If you have him neutered, it will lessen his desire to dominate and his leg-lifting tendencies. Alternatively, work at giving him an attitude adjustment. There is no better way to handle a dominant dog than through obedience training, says Dr. Burch
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Signs of Aggression:
You should never, ever, be afraid of your dog. Not for a minute. Not even for a heartbeat. Don’t excuse or ignore any behavior that is threatening, not even if it ended quickly and without incident. Next time, her threat will probably be more forceful. And unless you do something about it, says Dr. Burch, there will always be a next time.

Some dogs display aggression as they reach puberty and try to establish their rank in the pack – your family. For example, your dog may recognize you as leader because you taught her to obey commands, yet still try to assert herself by growling at your spouse. That’s the type of aggression that takes many people by surprise. The first time their dog growls a challenge at them, most owners are startled, but they try to rationalize their pet’s behavior by saying, “She never did anything like that before.” The truth is, she did challenge them before, says Dr. Burch. They just didn’t notice the signs.

According to Dr. Burch, the first sign that your dog is vying for the position of pack leader or second – in – command is when she simply ignores a command. For example, you and your spouse are setting out chips and dips in preparation for a party and your dog is underfoot and begging. One of you commands “Down,” but she leaves the room instead. She’s out of the way, which is what you wanted, so you don’t bother to enforce the command and soon forget all about her minor disobedience. But she doesn’t, explain Dr. Burch. After a few more unenforced commands, she’ll test you at a higher level.

The next incident may occur a few days later. In a hurry to leave for a meeting, you reach down to pick up your dog’s dish before she’s eaten the last morsel. But you change your mind when she stands over the dish, her body rigid, her mouth closed and her eyes glaring into yours. “Okay, hurry up and finish it,” you say, never realizing that you have just lost round tow.
Round three will probably be a growl, says Dr. Burch. Startled and momentarily fearful, you’ll finally realize that there’s a problem.

Prevention is the best way to keep aggression from escalating, so socialize your dog well, and never urge her to be aggressive towards humans. While she’s still a puppy, teach her to respond to commands, whether they come from you or anyone else in the family, and use the commands during everyday activities: “Down” for petting, “Sit” for a treat, “Come” when it’s time for dinner. And never give a command unless you are prepared to enforce it.

Your dog may be well-behaved for you but dominant or even aggressive with other dogs or strangers. Keep your eyes on her if she suddenly becomes alert and tries to make eye contact with an animal or a person. Defuse aggression by being confident, relaxed and softly spoken.
Stop your dog from concentrating on the object of her aggression by giving her a command, covering her eyes, or removing her from the situation. If she doesn’t obey you, no matter what, obedience school is the answer. But why wait? Obedience school is also the best way to learn to train your dog and keep problems from occurring in the first place.

Fear Biting:
In a frightening situation, any dog may bite, whether she’s dominant or submissive, says Loomis. This usually results from mishandling a terrified dog. She’s nervous and is trying to stop you from making her do something she is too scared to do. For example, if your dog cowers under the bed after a particularly loud thunder clap and you try to drag her out, she might snap. Instead, wait for her to calm down and emerge by herself. Don’t punish a fear biter, advises Loomis. All you’ll do is add to her terror. And check with your vet in case there’s a serious reason for it.